This story starts, not with me, but with 5 Americans who got arrested after I arrived for going into the mining province illegally and taking pictures illegally. That kind of set the stage for the border patrol to say everyone must have a VISA before coming to Congo, made possible by the very new Congo embassy in America. Now you have to go to contact the embassy to get your VISA and they will no longer give you a VISA at the border, even the 8 day VISA that before was so easy to get. As I was leaving today, two Americans were turned away and walked back into Rwanda, not sure what they were going to do. Given this situation, it was all the worse that the VISA I got in Beni was no good.
I was in Beni with my 8 day VISA like always, and then someone from the school converted it for me. I wanted to leave Congo two weeks later so I said if I can get two more 8 day ones, that would be cheaper than the one month VISA, but I don't know if you can or not. They checked and the guys at the OFFICIAL office in Beni gave me a 15 day VISA, costing the price of two 8 day VISAs, or 70 dollars. Everything is fine, and I leave Beni, the 15 day VISA passing through the hands of no less than 4 immigration officials at the airport who all say nothing about it being a problem.
I arrive at the airport in Goma, the last 10 minutes of the ride being pretty bumpy as only a small airplane can be, and my stomach was a little startled. It wasn't feeling too bad, but it definitely wasn't right. Oh well, no need to worry as I was almost back to Maji Matulivu and I could grab some food and relax a bit. It was just about 1pm.
I waited in line for immigration at the airport and when it was my turn, it didn't take more than two minutes before they took the passport of the last muzungu behind me and put mine aside. Sure I thought, hold back the young kid in hopes we can get some money out of him. I have been asked for money before, and it looked like another time I arrived in the airport.
They finish with the other guy and there are three people behind the desk and they begin asking where my visa is. I show them the paper I have that says 15 days on it and they keep looking in my passport. Beyond a week visa, it is stamped in the passport. I showed them the paper and the four people (a woman came now too) were all talking about different things. The one person kept talking about not having a visa, another talked about the list of places on the paper that I could go, and another guy was talking about something completely different. It was hard to follow them all, and they would periodically turn and ask me things.
At one point I got them all to listen to what had happened, how I went to the OFFICIAL OFFICE in Beni for immigration and that was what they gave me and they could call there and see. Finally an older officer came over too and he recognized me (as he should since I had to give him 10 dollars to write "Beni" on my original visa because it only said "Goma") and it sounded like he was arguing for me, taking on two of the guys at once, and more or less winning, but then just agreeing with the third guy.
I get shuffled into the side office, and they begin to ask me things like "do I know it's illegal to not have a VISA in Congo?" I kept saying yes, but I have one. Turns out, two week VISAs don't exist, and given the Perfect Storm of other events happening since I went to Beni, it really was a big deal.
I called the logistics people at HEAL Africa and the immigration people ended up taking me to the official office in the city. There I talked to the head guy (who did not know Swahili so they translated his French to Swahili for me) who again acted like I had done this on purpose. They called Beni and got my official record there, showing that they gave me a two week VISA and even how much I paid for it. Oh well. They put me in another office where an official filled out a formal report, three handwritten pages, carbon copied, and I had to sign them all. It was in French too so the logistics guy from HEAL translated for me, again into Swahili. I signed them, handed over (well, it was actually under) 150 dollars and everything seemed like it would be okay. By this time it was after 4pm when the office was supposed to be closed, and they kept my passport saying we could get it the next day.
Well, we never got it the next day because they wanted another 100 dollars before they gave it back. Saturday I came to HEAL with the money and the logistics guy went to the office and got my passport. I was looking at it and there still was no VISA! I asked and he said they would have my name at the border and it won't be a problem. Well, to me that sounds kind of like a problem.
I went to the border with a friend and the two Americans were just turned away before me. They looked at my passport, turning each page looking for the VISA. They went into a back office and came out looking confused. My friend went and talked to the guy and then they called me back too. Turns out, they wanted 50 more dollars, which my friend said no way to, and I told him what had happened and he said "Okay, hakuna shida" (no problem). 10 minutes later, my passport was stamped (on like the second page, and I'm on page 6 or so) and I was on my way.
I hopped on a bus on the Rwandan side, and three hours later I was in Kigali. Kind of a crappy situation, but nothing else I could do. There was no higher authority to appeal to and now I know next time to get my VISA in America before I get here.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
The Beginning of the End
Today is my last day in Beni :( I'm not entirely sure how I feel about it. I'm excited to go to Goma and see what has happened there since I left, but also don't really want to leave. The problem with Beni is it feels like home. It just feels comfortable and the people are nice and it is quiet (well, except the kids yelling “muzungu”, “good morning”, and “give me my money” (interestingly, they usually say “give me my money” like it is already theirs and you are only holding on to it for them)). But tomorrow I head to Goma (where everything is in shades of gray from the lava rocks and dust) and either Saturday or Sunday I'll head to Kigali. Monday is to Nairobi where I'll spend a week doing who knows what (well, I hope someone knows because I don't know what I'll be doing).
Looking back, it's easy to see all the things that I didn't do, or that didn't go so well. The tiller tire has caused numerous problems, the weather, the students weren't very involved with what I was doing this time, only half the rabbit's houses were built, I did not do any teaching outside of Delphin and Isengo, etc...
But that would put a huge damper on all that was accomplished. There is a field where there previously was none. Isengo and Delphin know how to use the tiller (when it works) and do a pretty good job with it. They are beginning to notice while operating the tiller if there is a problem, and know to shut the tiller off before untangling the weeds from the tines. Isengo especially seems really comfortable with it and as they take care of the crops that are there now and have extra time, they will be able to expand the field with the tillers in a more responsible way than had I not come. The problem with machines in Congo is they are often abused and not taken care of, and hopefully the tillers will be taken care of.
We have three rabbit houses, and most of the materials for three more. Last time I was here, I tried to get materials to build rabbit houses for three days and then we got some wood for something and then the tools didn't work and that was already the last day I was here, so the fact that we have three houses built is awesome. They are neither plumb nor square, but they are not going anywhere. They are built solidly and look halfway decent too. Even though the university doesn't have the rabbits yet, I'm confident that with the houses built, they will get some soon.
I didn't work a lot with the students, but I did get to talk to many of them, some for the first time, and some I had met last year. I had some very good conversations about Congolese life and what the students saw as some of the problems of Congo and potential ways of fixing them. It was very encouraging to me to see the hope of the students and hear their talk about changing Congo for the better. Quite often though I just tried to get to know the students as much as possible, asking about their families, what they are studying, why, etc...
I didn't get to speak or teach to a lot of people, but I did encourage many. Just being here is great and I tried to help wherever I could and to talk with the family members at the house and use my Swahili as much as possible. I'm really surprised by how much Swahili I remembered, and it really helped me to work with Isengo and Delphin since neither guy knew English. Some times were frustrating, but I would work out some way of saying what I wanted in Swahili. Congolese people were always so excited to hear that a muzungu knew Swahili and especially when I would talk to them in Swahili.
Now that I'm getting ready to leave the question people ask the most is "when are you coming back?" It is a question I don't know the answer to, but I do know if God says "go back to Beni," I would not think twice about it. The only thing is, when I come back, I won't be traveling alone, as I believe my fiance (and by the time I would come back, my wife) will not let me go anywhere again without her. Don't worry Mupenzi (my Love), I miss you too.
Looking back, it's easy to see all the things that I didn't do, or that didn't go so well. The tiller tire has caused numerous problems, the weather, the students weren't very involved with what I was doing this time, only half the rabbit's houses were built, I did not do any teaching outside of Delphin and Isengo, etc...
But that would put a huge damper on all that was accomplished. There is a field where there previously was none. Isengo and Delphin know how to use the tiller (when it works) and do a pretty good job with it. They are beginning to notice while operating the tiller if there is a problem, and know to shut the tiller off before untangling the weeds from the tines. Isengo especially seems really comfortable with it and as they take care of the crops that are there now and have extra time, they will be able to expand the field with the tillers in a more responsible way than had I not come. The problem with machines in Congo is they are often abused and not taken care of, and hopefully the tillers will be taken care of.
We have three rabbit houses, and most of the materials for three more. Last time I was here, I tried to get materials to build rabbit houses for three days and then we got some wood for something and then the tools didn't work and that was already the last day I was here, so the fact that we have three houses built is awesome. They are neither plumb nor square, but they are not going anywhere. They are built solidly and look halfway decent too. Even though the university doesn't have the rabbits yet, I'm confident that with the houses built, they will get some soon.
I didn't work a lot with the students, but I did get to talk to many of them, some for the first time, and some I had met last year. I had some very good conversations about Congolese life and what the students saw as some of the problems of Congo and potential ways of fixing them. It was very encouraging to me to see the hope of the students and hear their talk about changing Congo for the better. Quite often though I just tried to get to know the students as much as possible, asking about their families, what they are studying, why, etc...
I didn't get to speak or teach to a lot of people, but I did encourage many. Just being here is great and I tried to help wherever I could and to talk with the family members at the house and use my Swahili as much as possible. I'm really surprised by how much Swahili I remembered, and it really helped me to work with Isengo and Delphin since neither guy knew English. Some times were frustrating, but I would work out some way of saying what I wanted in Swahili. Congolese people were always so excited to hear that a muzungu knew Swahili and especially when I would talk to them in Swahili.
Now that I'm getting ready to leave the question people ask the most is "when are you coming back?" It is a question I don't know the answer to, but I do know if God says "go back to Beni," I would not think twice about it. The only thing is, when I come back, I won't be traveling alone, as I believe my fiance (and by the time I would come back, my wife) will not let me go anywhere again without her. Don't worry Mupenzi (my Love), I miss you too.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Unalamuka?
Yesterday as I was playing cards with some of the other muzungus here (most of whom are sick), we started wondering why people say certain expressions. Like “I'm head over heels for you”. I could be wrong, but isn't your head supposed to be over your heels? If it were something special, shouldn't it be heels over head?
This morning it hit me what people say when they see you in the morning. “Unalamuka?” They say it as a question although the exact translation would be “You are awake?” Well, if you see me to ask me if I'm awake, wouldn't it be obvious that yes, nililamuka (I awoke)? The correct response is “ndio” (yes). What is so funny though is sometimes the Congolese ask it in such a way that they sound really surprised. Even if it's when you normally wake up, every day “unalamuka?” in a very surprised voice.
In a place where doing something as simple as buying simple hand tools for agriculture can take a couple days, I'm taking the progress we're making as a good sign. Today we are actually building the rabbit houses (after much talk) and last week we were in the fields. This afternoon after the sun's intensity abates, we will water the cabbages in the fields (which are finally starting to hold their own and not look dead in the afternoon when they previously wilted every day) and then we will plant carrot seeds. I brought four seed varieties from UW-Madison to plant here and workers here will fill out a small report to help the plant breeders back home (of which I will be one in September:) ). I'm planting them at the university and the house I'm staying at so I hope to get two reports, but I'm spreading the risk and at least looking for one.
Saturday should have been a work day except I went to the market with the mama of the house, and then when I got back I took another muzungu to the hospital (doctor). I was the only muzungu left (out of 6) who could drive and was not sick. Turns out, it was pretty bad and since Saturday she has stayed in her bed, only to make short forays to the bathroom and outside for a bit. Two others have malaria, and one is just recovering from Typhoid.
I leave Beni on Thursday, so the next three days will be very busy as we try to do as much as possible during the day and I work on instructions to leave here when I go, written in my best Swahili (and probably a little (or a lot) of help) for the guy who will be taking care of the fields when I leave. He is an extremely hard worker, but I want to leave some agriculture instructions. Things like crop rotations and please don't let weeds take over the fields after harvesting a crop, and cutting the weeds around the field when they are in flower so they do not go to seed. Simple things that are often overlooked here (although people do talk about them).
The warm room I'm in right now is usually quiet, and it's a good place to eat lunch (rice and beans) and write e-mails or blog posts. I usually chat with the students, but when the choir practices, it's so loud I can't hear what's being said anyway. New this year for lunch is a chest freezer where they keep and sell soda. The freezer is great because when the generator comes on in the morning, the soda is cool by lunch time. Now I'm enjoying a Mirinda. I believe it is a black currant flavor, and it is honestly my favorite soda ever. It was one of the things I was looking forward to about coming back. Not one of the main reasons for coming, but a very nice side bonus. If only I could find Mirinda in Wisconsin...
This morning it hit me what people say when they see you in the morning. “Unalamuka?” They say it as a question although the exact translation would be “You are awake?” Well, if you see me to ask me if I'm awake, wouldn't it be obvious that yes, nililamuka (I awoke)? The correct response is “ndio” (yes). What is so funny though is sometimes the Congolese ask it in such a way that they sound really surprised. Even if it's when you normally wake up, every day “unalamuka?” in a very surprised voice.
In a place where doing something as simple as buying simple hand tools for agriculture can take a couple days, I'm taking the progress we're making as a good sign. Today we are actually building the rabbit houses (after much talk) and last week we were in the fields. This afternoon after the sun's intensity abates, we will water the cabbages in the fields (which are finally starting to hold their own and not look dead in the afternoon when they previously wilted every day) and then we will plant carrot seeds. I brought four seed varieties from UW-Madison to plant here and workers here will fill out a small report to help the plant breeders back home (of which I will be one in September:) ). I'm planting them at the university and the house I'm staying at so I hope to get two reports, but I'm spreading the risk and at least looking for one.
Saturday should have been a work day except I went to the market with the mama of the house, and then when I got back I took another muzungu to the hospital (doctor). I was the only muzungu left (out of 6) who could drive and was not sick. Turns out, it was pretty bad and since Saturday she has stayed in her bed, only to make short forays to the bathroom and outside for a bit. Two others have malaria, and one is just recovering from Typhoid.
I leave Beni on Thursday, so the next three days will be very busy as we try to do as much as possible during the day and I work on instructions to leave here when I go, written in my best Swahili (and probably a little (or a lot) of help) for the guy who will be taking care of the fields when I leave. He is an extremely hard worker, but I want to leave some agriculture instructions. Things like crop rotations and please don't let weeds take over the fields after harvesting a crop, and cutting the weeds around the field when they are in flower so they do not go to seed. Simple things that are often overlooked here (although people do talk about them).
The warm room I'm in right now is usually quiet, and it's a good place to eat lunch (rice and beans) and write e-mails or blog posts. I usually chat with the students, but when the choir practices, it's so loud I can't hear what's being said anyway. New this year for lunch is a chest freezer where they keep and sell soda. The freezer is great because when the generator comes on in the morning, the soda is cool by lunch time. Now I'm enjoying a Mirinda. I believe it is a black currant flavor, and it is honestly my favorite soda ever. It was one of the things I was looking forward to about coming back. Not one of the main reasons for coming, but a very nice side bonus. If only I could find Mirinda in Wisconsin...
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Two gifts from God
Among the many gifts and ways UCBC has seen God work in the last couple years, I have seen two awesome ones myself the last two days.
The first is the cooperation of the weather and the expansion of the field. The tiller went out yesterday and we used it until we ran out of gas (we had 10 liters, put 3 in the machine, and the other 7 disappeared). We got the field ready to plant, which we did this morning. Now, as I speak, we have more gas and the two guys working with me are out there now, tilling up the rest of the land that was broken with the hoes. There are way more cabbages ready in the nursery than we have space for now (and more than I think we will even know what to do with) and the tiller is doing a wonderful job of getting the space ready for planting. It is so exciting to see these two guys working with the tillers, unclogging the tines when they have to, and in general, just doing a really good job. It's also interesting to see the people who walk past the school to get water from a spring stop and stare at the machine like they usually stop and stare at the muzungu working in the field. Maybe red is the new white?
In other agriculture news, yesterday we bought all the materials we will need for the rabbit houses so that is exciting. Now if the weather doesn't cooperate, we can work on those.
The other tremendous gift from God was the dedication of the UCBC bus this morning. There is no public transport in Beni (except motorcycles which are more expensive than busses) so the university has been praying for and waiting for a bus for a long time. Last year, one of the students was severely injured in an accident while she was walking home, and there have been several less severe accidents as well. Provided for by many small donations, and one large one, the bus arrived in Beni a couple weeks ago and as exams finished up last Friday and we head into the new semester, they commissioned the bus this morning. To pay for it's operation, the students will pay round trip fare every day, enough to cover the gas, driver, and put some aside for repairs. For students that cannot pay, that might be something that will come under a student sponsorship program soon. Either way though, it was a wonderful dedication.
They had all the students assemble for chapel outside today, on the large "porch" of the building and the singing was louder and there were more shouts than I have ever seen at chapel at UCBC. The director's brother, a retired and well respected pastor, gave a message of hope and joy and thanks to God, and then the staff and students surrounded the bus and prayed for it. Then started about 10 minutes of picture taking. First with everyone, then with the staff, then just the teachers, then just the administration, then the director and his wife, then the drivers, etc... Everyone was so excited! There was also renewed hope as well since God provided one bus, He will faithfully provide for the building materials and money needed, and as the director put it, 7 more busses so they will have a fleet of busses and they will need them because of the students that will be at UCBC in the future. Praise God for providing good weather, and also for providing for this huge need of UCBC, a bus, so the students will be safer, and have more time to work on homework instead of walking an hour and a half to and from school every day (that is what these fine young men and women will be doing with their time now right?).
Friday, March 13, 2009
And the land still isn't tilled...
On the plus side of the tillers still not seeing much action, the Congolese guys are beginning to believe me when I told them that the machines are good, but not perfect. When they first came, everyone thought they would just open up all the space in the whole city of Beni for planting, and as we have struggled to get one of them up and running, I think people are finally seeing the truth.
I talked to the director about bringing both machines to the school today and he didn't think it was a good idea. It would be better if only one machine was there and the other stayed in storage. That way, it would force the workers to really take care of that one machine and really learn how to use it vs. till as much land as possible as quickly as possible. I actually like that idea, so now we are trying to fix the tire of the one at the school.
We tried to pump the tire at the house and it didn't work. Then we tried again today and the valve just popped off! Now there is a hole the size of the valve in the tire. No wonder it didn't want to pump up. Anyway, I just sent it into town with someone and hopefully we can fix it. If it works, I'm thinking that should be the last problem, outside of the weather.
It rained again last night, so even had the tiller been working, we wouldn't have been able to use it. We have cabbages that need to be transplanted though so the two guys working with me were using the hoes to break up the soil better and removing all the weeds and roots to make good planting beds the old fashioned way. I raked a large area we cut before so the rotor tiller won't struggle so much and if we have to use the hoes, that will be easier too.
I am beginning to think maybe God is saying don't use the machines, or is trying to teach us a lesson. Machines are good, but they have their own problems. I hope the workers here will be able to respect the machines and use them when it is a lot better to use the machine, and not when it is just easier to use them.
I talked to the director about bringing both machines to the school today and he didn't think it was a good idea. It would be better if only one machine was there and the other stayed in storage. That way, it would force the workers to really take care of that one machine and really learn how to use it vs. till as much land as possible as quickly as possible. I actually like that idea, so now we are trying to fix the tire of the one at the school.
We tried to pump the tire at the house and it didn't work. Then we tried again today and the valve just popped off! Now there is a hole the size of the valve in the tire. No wonder it didn't want to pump up. Anyway, I just sent it into town with someone and hopefully we can fix it. If it works, I'm thinking that should be the last problem, outside of the weather.
It rained again last night, so even had the tiller been working, we wouldn't have been able to use it. We have cabbages that need to be transplanted though so the two guys working with me were using the hoes to break up the soil better and removing all the weeds and roots to make good planting beds the old fashioned way. I raked a large area we cut before so the rotor tiller won't struggle so much and if we have to use the hoes, that will be easier too.
I am beginning to think maybe God is saying don't use the machines, or is trying to teach us a lesson. Machines are good, but they have their own problems. I hope the workers here will be able to respect the machines and use them when it is a lot better to use the machine, and not when it is just easier to use them.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
I should have known...
I don't know what I was thinking when I thought that it would be a simple matter of taking the tiller to the field and giving it a go in the Congo soil. I should have known nothing goes according to plan in Congo...
At first, everything seemed to be working fine. I turned the machine on, and picking up the rear, engaged the wheels so it would propel itself forward. It only had a couple yards to go to the field, which it covered with ease, and then I put the back down to start tilling.
It was going forward and then it stopped - the tines stop pretty easily on this model. I let go of the throttle, putting it in neutral, and let the machine idle a bit as I checked out the back. Two things were "wrong." First, the depth was set really shallow so it was really just tilling the top root zone which would be the hardest part. I deepened the depth gauge hoping to till more soil and less roots with each pass, and maybe slow the tiller down. Alas, the wheels are locked to the tines, so you really can't slow the tiller down that much. The second problem was the hiller/furrower attachment that was bogging the machine down by being caught in the soil and the machine didn't have enough strength to pull it through. I could take care of that later though with a wrench. So I stood up to go again.
"What's that?" one of the students asked as he picked up a screw. "It's hot, I think it's from the machine." Oh great. Just what we ned, although not a problem. We have screw drivers and Allen wrenches, I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out. I look at it and my heart sank. Where the heck are we going to find a six-pronged star driver/wrench/thing in Congo?
The screw had come from part of the engine, and we knew it where it was supposed to go because there was another one still in the engine and a gaping hole on the other side of the part where the missing screw needed to go.
I was ready to call it a day and we took the tiller up to the Depot (the workshop) and talked to different people about what to do. We had just decided to send someone into town with the screw and either find a driver for it or come back with a screw exactly the same, but with a different head, when we started playing around with the tiller. We ended up getting it on with an Allen wrench (I left to look for something while we were working on getting the hiller/furrower part off and when I came back it was miraculously on, tight, and the Allen wrench was sitting next to it - I hope we don't have to get it off, because it probably won't come off with the stripped top). The hiller attachment bold was really, really difficult and I'm thinking it must have been knocked during transport and bent because it was loose in the hole, but the bold was extremely difficult to get off. We ended up breaking the bolt off, so that attachment came off too. Now the only thing is a slightly flat tire, but we wanted to give it a shot anyway - To the field!
We get it to the field and a small group gathers as we turn it on and start tilling. It goes into the soil marvellously, but didn't go anywhere. Oh yeah, I had to lock wheels into place. That done, we go!
The tiller went in and I thought it was going great, except the tines stopped moving. Whenever it gets the least bit difficult, the tines just stop, which is slightly disappointing because it would be good if the tines could keep working without the wheels going. Oh well. It skidded across the top. Then I reversed it and did it again. A little deeper, but still across the top. 4 passes later it looks pretty good, but there is only 3-4 inches of till depth and the weed stems (cut, but still there) and roots had also begun to wrap around the tines. And this was only in the part that was planted just last year without anything major growing in it.
So now we will have to use the big jembe (hoe) first and break the soil, remove as many weeds as is feasible, and then use the tillers. We'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it works. I would like to get the other tiller to UCBC tomorrow too so I will see if I can get David to take it. Tomorrow we start with the jembe, then try again with the tillers. Wish us luck!
At first, everything seemed to be working fine. I turned the machine on, and picking up the rear, engaged the wheels so it would propel itself forward. It only had a couple yards to go to the field, which it covered with ease, and then I put the back down to start tilling.
It was going forward and then it stopped - the tines stop pretty easily on this model. I let go of the throttle, putting it in neutral, and let the machine idle a bit as I checked out the back. Two things were "wrong." First, the depth was set really shallow so it was really just tilling the top root zone which would be the hardest part. I deepened the depth gauge hoping to till more soil and less roots with each pass, and maybe slow the tiller down. Alas, the wheels are locked to the tines, so you really can't slow the tiller down that much. The second problem was the hiller/furrower attachment that was bogging the machine down by being caught in the soil and the machine didn't have enough strength to pull it through. I could take care of that later though with a wrench. So I stood up to go again.
"What's that?" one of the students asked as he picked up a screw. "It's hot, I think it's from the machine." Oh great. Just what we ned, although not a problem. We have screw drivers and Allen wrenches, I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out. I look at it and my heart sank. Where the heck are we going to find a six-pronged star driver/wrench/thing in Congo?
The screw had come from part of the engine, and we knew it where it was supposed to go because there was another one still in the engine and a gaping hole on the other side of the part where the missing screw needed to go.
I was ready to call it a day and we took the tiller up to the Depot (the workshop) and talked to different people about what to do. We had just decided to send someone into town with the screw and either find a driver for it or come back with a screw exactly the same, but with a different head, when we started playing around with the tiller. We ended up getting it on with an Allen wrench (I left to look for something while we were working on getting the hiller/furrower part off and when I came back it was miraculously on, tight, and the Allen wrench was sitting next to it - I hope we don't have to get it off, because it probably won't come off with the stripped top). The hiller attachment bold was really, really difficult and I'm thinking it must have been knocked during transport and bent because it was loose in the hole, but the bold was extremely difficult to get off. We ended up breaking the bolt off, so that attachment came off too. Now the only thing is a slightly flat tire, but we wanted to give it a shot anyway - To the field!
We get it to the field and a small group gathers as we turn it on and start tilling. It goes into the soil marvellously, but didn't go anywhere. Oh yeah, I had to lock wheels into place. That done, we go!
The tiller went in and I thought it was going great, except the tines stopped moving. Whenever it gets the least bit difficult, the tines just stop, which is slightly disappointing because it would be good if the tines could keep working without the wheels going. Oh well. It skidded across the top. Then I reversed it and did it again. A little deeper, but still across the top. 4 passes later it looks pretty good, but there is only 3-4 inches of till depth and the weed stems (cut, but still there) and roots had also begun to wrap around the tines. And this was only in the part that was planted just last year without anything major growing in it.
So now we will have to use the big jembe (hoe) first and break the soil, remove as many weeds as is feasible, and then use the tillers. We'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it works. I would like to get the other tiller to UCBC tomorrow too so I will see if I can get David to take it. Tomorrow we start with the jembe, then try again with the tillers. Wish us luck!
Tillers
One of the two tillers arrived at UCBC this morning and is running well! We haven't tried it in the field yet (because it rained last night) but after I write this, that's where I'm going. They look like heavy duty machines, but it will be interesting to see how it handles the Congo soil and the weeds and grasses that were growing there.
Once we till the ground, we have cabbages that are ready to be transplanted, and then we have many other seeds we want to plant. The area to be cultivated is pretty big, but we're starting where we can. Whatever I can do while I'm here will be a good start and then they can continue the work (I hope).
Yesterday was an interesting day, but the story starts on Sunday. Sunday night Congo defeated Ghana to win an African soccer cup. It was the first time since 1974 and there was shouting in the streets as it happened. We woke up on Monday all ready to go to school and work only to find out President Kabila had declared it a holiday to celebrate the victory. When we finally did get to the school around 10:30, to do some internet, it turns out the two guys I'm working with were ready to work anyway. I should have taken a moto earlier, but I thought they wouldn't have been there. We just cut some more grasses and it was really too hot to do much. Today though I started early and got a couple hours of good, cool work in and cut a substantial amount of grass (from the muzungu perspective). I'm getting the hang of it more and more and when my blisters go away, I should be able to do even more. They don't really bother me, and I just work through them, but I still feel output will increase when they are gone.
Time to Till!
Time to test the tillers!
Once we till the ground, we have cabbages that are ready to be transplanted, and then we have many other seeds we want to plant. The area to be cultivated is pretty big, but we're starting where we can. Whatever I can do while I'm here will be a good start and then they can continue the work (I hope).
Yesterday was an interesting day, but the story starts on Sunday. Sunday night Congo defeated Ghana to win an African soccer cup. It was the first time since 1974 and there was shouting in the streets as it happened. We woke up on Monday all ready to go to school and work only to find out President Kabila had declared it a holiday to celebrate the victory. When we finally did get to the school around 10:30, to do some internet, it turns out the two guys I'm working with were ready to work anyway. I should have taken a moto earlier, but I thought they wouldn't have been there. We just cut some more grasses and it was really too hot to do much. Today though I started early and got a couple hours of good, cool work in and cut a substantial amount of grass (from the muzungu perspective). I'm getting the hang of it more and more and when my blisters go away, I should be able to do even more. They don't really bother me, and I just work through them, but I still feel output will increase when they are gone.
Time to Till!
Time to test the tillers!
Women's Day Parade
After a false Women's Day on Saturday, the real Women's Day was celebrated on Sunday, March 8. I guess the women were petitioning for a day other than Sunday because that is already a holiday, and in the end they got outvoted. I don't know who did the voting, or who made the decision, but everyone was supposed to go to church in the morning and then assemble at 10am at a church in the business district.
For any kind of gathering where many different groups will be represented, the people of Congo (or Goma and Beni at least because that is where I have been) like to dress in coordinated fabric. Every group picks out their own fabric and then have clothes made on their own, but from the same fabric. In that way, the women of Beni marched down the streets. Oh did they march. I don't know how long the distance was, but there were women who had been out there for 4 hours when the UCBC group finished, and an hour later, they were still marching. Thousands of women.
The muzungus of UCBC marched with some of the students and they got there a little late. We didn't know exactly when the marching was going to start so the students called when it was underway and then they got dressed and went to walk. The three muzungu guys then sat in the shade and watched the women of Beni march past. Each group had a banner in front, either of cloth or wood that said where they were from. There were school and church groups as well as company groups and organizations. Anyone who wanted to march I think just had to have a banner and a fabric picked out.
As they got to the end there was a covered pavilion, and sitting under it were all the important people of Beni. The mayor for instance was sitting on a couch in front. As the women would come by they would sing and dance and yell like they had not done before (even though the whole way before some had been singing and dancing in step as well). An MC would shout out the group of the women and everyone would cheer and shout. They even had a band to welcome them! It was pretty cool, except the women were still outside for 4+ hours start to finish!
One other cool thing about the march was the medics who were patrolling on the edges. Dressed in tan, they carried first aid kits and stretchers in case a need arose. Right before one group got to where we were sitting, a little girl fainted and they came running and quickly took her to the shade. It was good to see the medics there as that is something easily forgotten here in Congo.
For any kind of gathering where many different groups will be represented, the people of Congo (or Goma and Beni at least because that is where I have been) like to dress in coordinated fabric. Every group picks out their own fabric and then have clothes made on their own, but from the same fabric. In that way, the women of Beni marched down the streets. Oh did they march. I don't know how long the distance was, but there were women who had been out there for 4 hours when the UCBC group finished, and an hour later, they were still marching. Thousands of women.
The muzungus of UCBC marched with some of the students and they got there a little late. We didn't know exactly when the marching was going to start so the students called when it was underway and then they got dressed and went to walk. The three muzungu guys then sat in the shade and watched the women of Beni march past. Each group had a banner in front, either of cloth or wood that said where they were from. There were school and church groups as well as company groups and organizations. Anyone who wanted to march I think just had to have a banner and a fabric picked out.
As they got to the end there was a covered pavilion, and sitting under it were all the important people of Beni. The mayor for instance was sitting on a couch in front. As the women would come by they would sing and dance and yell like they had not done before (even though the whole way before some had been singing and dancing in step as well). An MC would shout out the group of the women and everyone would cheer and shout. They even had a band to welcome them! It was pretty cool, except the women were still outside for 4+ hours start to finish!
One other cool thing about the march was the medics who were patrolling on the edges. Dressed in tan, they carried first aid kits and stretchers in case a need arose. Right before one group got to where we were sitting, a little girl fainted and they came running and quickly took her to the shade. It was good to see the medics there as that is something easily forgotten here in Congo.
Friday, March 6, 2009
It started already
I started working in the shamba (field) today. It was sunny, hot, and my winterized body from Wisconsin was really not appreciating it. I have probably drank a litre and a half of water since leaving the house this morning and just keep drinking water and taking it easy. I'm done with work for the day though because it's just too hot now, and I'm probably already sunburned anyway. I was trying to limit my exposure, but really should have asked for some sun-screen as I forgot mine at home. It's hard to tell though because I was walking through some tall grass (6ft+) and the edges are kind of sharp, so I know I got some minor scrapes and I could just be feeling those. Only time will tell.
Because agriculture things take a while to get going, I started cutting some grass this morning and gathering it to make compost. I have two guy working with me, and it was going pretty good. Now we are clearing land that was a field last year so the ground is not too bad. Some of the grasses here form clumps and the roots are like tree stumps, so next week when we cultivate new land, it will be difficult. We are probably going to have to cultivate the land a little with hoes and then go back with the tiller.
When I was done working because I was radiating enough heat to boil the sweat pouring off my body, I left the two guys to finish the work. In classic Congolese fashion, they worked for about 5 minutes and then I haven't seen them out there since. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt though that it was just too hot and they will do it later. They actually might too because they are hard working guys with the university. Only time will tell...
Because agriculture things take a while to get going, I started cutting some grass this morning and gathering it to make compost. I have two guy working with me, and it was going pretty good. Now we are clearing land that was a field last year so the ground is not too bad. Some of the grasses here form clumps and the roots are like tree stumps, so next week when we cultivate new land, it will be difficult. We are probably going to have to cultivate the land a little with hoes and then go back with the tiller.
When I was done working because I was radiating enough heat to boil the sweat pouring off my body, I left the two guys to finish the work. In classic Congolese fashion, they worked for about 5 minutes and then I haven't seen them out there since. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt though that it was just too hot and they will do it later. They actually might too because they are hard working guys with the university. Only time will tell...
I'm hot
I arrived in Beni yesterday on a two propeller, 15 seat plane. It was a pretty good ride considering it was cloudy and overcast. A bit bumpy at the end, and visibility was poor, but I slept for about half the 50 minute ride. In classic Congo fashion, everyone on the plane applauded and clapped when we touched down. Let's just say there is a reason people pay a lot more to fly TMK than the other airlines in Congo.
My other travels were uneventful, except that God is awesome. The day before I left I met some people from church who work with a Rwandan organization with a guest house, so when I got to Kigali, they picked me up and I stayed there for the night. It's always good knowing someone is looking out for you. Goma was good too, although I was only there for a day. I saw a couple friends and there were two people at the guesthouse who come and go every year, and they are there now so it was cool to see them again. Everyone else there was new, and Joe and Lyn were gone, so it was different, but it was cool to be back. The flowers were beautiful and the lake was refreshing after two days of travelling.
The only other really interesting thing about my travels was the immigration official in the Goma airport who charged me $10 to write Beni on my VISA along with Goma. Apparently the officials at the boarder should have wrote it in, but I didn't know that, and apparently it's a new rule after the first of the year. I'm not sure how true that is though because I argued that last year I didn't need it and he never told me when the rule came into effect until after I told him I was there last year. Oh well. On the plus side, I understood everything he was telling me in Swahili, and even though I didn't like it, I still followed it all and was arguing for a long time. I actually wouldn't have given up except I heard them call my flight on the PA so paid him the money and got going.
Arriving at the Kasali's house was like coming home. The family there does such a good job of making you feel like family. Everyone was excited to see me, and whether I thought I accomplished a lot last time or not, everyone thanked me for my time before and thanked me for coming again. Everyone also asks about my fiance and where she is, and wonder when she is coming back to Congo too.
It is good to be back, and there is much to write about, but no time to write it. For now, it's 2:15 and lunch just arrived, so I'm off to eat.
My other travels were uneventful, except that God is awesome. The day before I left I met some people from church who work with a Rwandan organization with a guest house, so when I got to Kigali, they picked me up and I stayed there for the night. It's always good knowing someone is looking out for you. Goma was good too, although I was only there for a day. I saw a couple friends and there were two people at the guesthouse who come and go every year, and they are there now so it was cool to see them again. Everyone else there was new, and Joe and Lyn were gone, so it was different, but it was cool to be back. The flowers were beautiful and the lake was refreshing after two days of travelling.
The only other really interesting thing about my travels was the immigration official in the Goma airport who charged me $10 to write Beni on my VISA along with Goma. Apparently the officials at the boarder should have wrote it in, but I didn't know that, and apparently it's a new rule after the first of the year. I'm not sure how true that is though because I argued that last year I didn't need it and he never told me when the rule came into effect until after I told him I was there last year. Oh well. On the plus side, I understood everything he was telling me in Swahili, and even though I didn't like it, I still followed it all and was arguing for a long time. I actually wouldn't have given up except I heard them call my flight on the PA so paid him the money and got going.
Arriving at the Kasali's house was like coming home. The family there does such a good job of making you feel like family. Everyone was excited to see me, and whether I thought I accomplished a lot last time or not, everyone thanked me for my time before and thanked me for coming again. Everyone also asks about my fiance and where she is, and wonder when she is coming back to Congo too.
It is good to be back, and there is much to write about, but no time to write it. For now, it's 2:15 and lunch just arrived, so I'm off to eat.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Here we go again!
Hello again to the few (or many for all I know) who may read these random ramblings. I promise though they are all real and while random, actually happened (although maybe not in the order presented).
So it's been a while since the last posting, and to that, I apologize. My fiance came to visit in my last days in Congo and honestly, I lost all motivation to write while she was there, and didn't think about it when I was back. I've been thinking though I'll just keep writing this time about things even after I return.
Return from what? Well, Congo of course! I'm going back (tomorrow) to the University in Beni. It'll take like 4 days to get there, and I'll spend about 3 weeks there, and then a couple days in Goma and a week in Kenya and then I'll be back. All told, 5 weeks will have passed and I'm hoping to have seen God work in marvelous ways and that my relationship with him will be strengthened during that time.
So why the return trip? The last time I was in Beni, the leadership of UCBC (University Christian Bilingual of Congo) and I met to establish some agricultural goals for the many acres of land that are unused now. Not many (if any) of the things we discussed were acted upon since I left for many reasons. Also, two tillers arrived in a shipping container since I left (that dad and I ironically loaded before I left for Congo the first time!). This time will be a great time to see friends and hopefully learn a lot more about Congo. I do not know what God is calling my fiance and I to do in the future, but if He wants us to work overseas somewhere (maybe in Congo) we want to be ready. Learning as much as possible about international work is part of preparing for that.
I don't know how often I will be able to update the blog while in Congo but I'll do my best, and will for sure post more after my trip as well. Also, feel free to contact me with any comments or questions either on the comments on the blog, or at jdparsons86@gmail.com.
In other news, God is working in other ways besides international travel as I have just received a position at UW-Madison in the Plant breeding and Plant Genetics program starting this fall. I will be working with a professor on Carrots and don't know a lot about the specifics of my project, but know God is working! Madison is the best university for plant breeding and many people apply for only a few positions every year. Thank God for this incredible blessing!
So it's been a while since the last posting, and to that, I apologize. My fiance came to visit in my last days in Congo and honestly, I lost all motivation to write while she was there, and didn't think about it when I was back. I've been thinking though I'll just keep writing this time about things even after I return.
Return from what? Well, Congo of course! I'm going back (tomorrow) to the University in Beni. It'll take like 4 days to get there, and I'll spend about 3 weeks there, and then a couple days in Goma and a week in Kenya and then I'll be back. All told, 5 weeks will have passed and I'm hoping to have seen God work in marvelous ways and that my relationship with him will be strengthened during that time.
So why the return trip? The last time I was in Beni, the leadership of UCBC (University Christian Bilingual of Congo) and I met to establish some agricultural goals for the many acres of land that are unused now. Not many (if any) of the things we discussed were acted upon since I left for many reasons. Also, two tillers arrived in a shipping container since I left (that dad and I ironically loaded before I left for Congo the first time!). This time will be a great time to see friends and hopefully learn a lot more about Congo. I do not know what God is calling my fiance and I to do in the future, but if He wants us to work overseas somewhere (maybe in Congo) we want to be ready. Learning as much as possible about international work is part of preparing for that.
I don't know how often I will be able to update the blog while in Congo but I'll do my best, and will for sure post more after my trip as well. Also, feel free to contact me with any comments or questions either on the comments on the blog, or at jdparsons86@gmail.com.
In other news, God is working in other ways besides international travel as I have just received a position at UW-Madison in the Plant breeding and Plant Genetics program starting this fall. I will be working with a professor on Carrots and don't know a lot about the specifics of my project, but know God is working! Madison is the best university for plant breeding and many people apply for only a few positions every year. Thank God for this incredible blessing!
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