Friday, March 13, 2009

And the land still isn't tilled...

On the plus side of the tillers still not seeing much action, the Congolese guys are beginning to believe me when I told them that the machines are good, but not perfect. When they first came, everyone thought they would just open up all the space in the whole city of Beni for planting, and as we have struggled to get one of them up and running, I think people are finally seeing the truth.

I talked to the director about bringing both machines to the school today and he didn't think it was a good idea. It would be better if only one machine was there and the other stayed in storage. That way, it would force the workers to really take care of that one machine and really learn how to use it vs. till as much land as possible as quickly as possible. I actually like that idea, so now we are trying to fix the tire of the one at the school.

We tried to pump the tire at the house and it didn't work. Then we tried again today and the valve just popped off! Now there is a hole the size of the valve in the tire. No wonder it didn't want to pump up. Anyway, I just sent it into town with someone and hopefully we can fix it. If it works, I'm thinking that should be the last problem, outside of the weather.

It rained again last night, so even had the tiller been working, we wouldn't have been able to use it. We have cabbages that need to be transplanted though so the two guys working with me were using the hoes to break up the soil better and removing all the weeds and roots to make good planting beds the old fashioned way. I raked a large area we cut before so the rotor tiller won't struggle so much and if we have to use the hoes, that will be easier too.

I am beginning to think maybe God is saying don't use the machines, or is trying to teach us a lesson. Machines are good, but they have their own problems. I hope the workers here will be able to respect the machines and use them when it is a lot better to use the machine, and not when it is just easier to use them.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

I should have known...

I don't know what I was thinking when I thought that it would be a simple matter of taking the tiller to the field and giving it a go in the Congo soil. I should have known nothing goes according to plan in Congo...

At first, everything seemed to be working fine. I turned the machine on, and picking up the rear, engaged the wheels so it would propel itself forward. It only had a couple yards to go to the field, which it covered with ease, and then I put the back down to start tilling.

It was going forward and then it stopped - the tines stop pretty easily on this model. I let go of the throttle, putting it in neutral, and let the machine idle a bit as I checked out the back. Two things were "wrong." First, the depth was set really shallow so it was really just tilling the top root zone which would be the hardest part. I deepened the depth gauge hoping to till more soil and less roots with each pass, and maybe slow the tiller down. Alas, the wheels are locked to the tines, so you really can't slow the tiller down that much. The second problem was the hiller/furrower attachment that was bogging the machine down by being caught in the soil and the machine didn't have enough strength to pull it through. I could take care of that later though with a wrench. So I stood up to go again.

"What's that?" one of the students asked as he picked up a screw. "It's hot, I think it's from the machine." Oh great. Just what we ned, although not a problem. We have screw drivers and Allen wrenches, I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out. I look at it and my heart sank. Where the heck are we going to find a six-pronged star driver/wrench/thing in Congo?

The screw had come from part of the engine, and we knew it where it was supposed to go because there was another one still in the engine and a gaping hole on the other side of the part where the missing screw needed to go.

I was ready to call it a day and we took the tiller up to the Depot (the workshop) and talked to different people about what to do. We had just decided to send someone into town with the screw and either find a driver for it or come back with a screw exactly the same, but with a different head, when we started playing around with the tiller. We ended up getting it on with an Allen wrench (I left to look for something while we were working on getting the hiller/furrower part off and when I came back it was miraculously on, tight, and the Allen wrench was sitting next to it - I hope we don't have to get it off, because it probably won't come off with the stripped top). The hiller attachment bold was really, really difficult and I'm thinking it must have been knocked during transport and bent because it was loose in the hole, but the bold was extremely difficult to get off. We ended up breaking the bolt off, so that attachment came off too. Now the only thing is a slightly flat tire, but we wanted to give it a shot anyway - To the field!

We get it to the field and a small group gathers as we turn it on and start tilling. It goes into the soil marvellously, but didn't go anywhere. Oh yeah, I had to lock wheels into place. That done, we go!

The tiller went in and I thought it was going great, except the tines stopped moving. Whenever it gets the least bit difficult, the tines just stop, which is slightly disappointing because it would be good if the tines could keep working without the wheels going. Oh well. It skidded across the top. Then I reversed it and did it again. A little deeper, but still across the top. 4 passes later it looks pretty good, but there is only 3-4 inches of till depth and the weed stems (cut, but still there) and roots had also begun to wrap around the tines. And this was only in the part that was planted just last year without anything major growing in it.

So now we will have to use the big jembe (hoe) first and break the soil, remove as many weeds as is feasible, and then use the tillers. We'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it works. I would like to get the other tiller to UCBC tomorrow too so I will see if I can get David to take it. Tomorrow we start with the jembe, then try again with the tillers. Wish us luck!

Tillers

One of the two tillers arrived at UCBC this morning and is running well! We haven't tried it in the field yet (because it rained last night) but after I write this, that's where I'm going. They look like heavy duty machines, but it will be interesting to see how it handles the Congo soil and the weeds and grasses that were growing there.

Once we till the ground, we have cabbages that are ready to be transplanted, and then we have many other seeds we want to plant. The area to be cultivated is pretty big, but we're starting where we can. Whatever I can do while I'm here will be a good start and then they can continue the work (I hope).

Yesterday was an interesting day, but the story starts on Sunday. Sunday night Congo defeated Ghana to win an African soccer cup. It was the first time since 1974 and there was shouting in the streets as it happened. We woke up on Monday all ready to go to school and work only to find out President Kabila had declared it a holiday to celebrate the victory. When we finally did get to the school around 10:30, to do some internet, it turns out the two guys I'm working with were ready to work anyway. I should have taken a moto earlier, but I thought they wouldn't have been there. We just cut some more grasses and it was really too hot to do much. Today though I started early and got a couple hours of good, cool work in and cut a substantial amount of grass (from the muzungu perspective). I'm getting the hang of it more and more and when my blisters go away, I should be able to do even more. They don't really bother me, and I just work through them, but I still feel output will increase when they are gone.

Time to Till!

Time to test the tillers!

Women's Day Parade

After a false Women's Day on Saturday, the real Women's Day was celebrated on Sunday, March 8. I guess the women were petitioning for a day other than Sunday because that is already a holiday, and in the end they got outvoted. I don't know who did the voting, or who made the decision, but everyone was supposed to go to church in the morning and then assemble at 10am at a church in the business district.

For any kind of gathering where many different groups will be represented, the people of Congo (or Goma and Beni at least because that is where I have been) like to dress in coordinated fabric. Every group picks out their own fabric and then have clothes made on their own, but from the same fabric. In that way, the women of Beni marched down the streets. Oh did they march. I don't know how long the distance was, but there were women who had been out there for 4 hours when the UCBC group finished, and an hour later, they were still marching. Thousands of women.

The muzungus of UCBC marched with some of the students and they got there a little late. We didn't know exactly when the marching was going to start so the students called when it was underway and then they got dressed and went to walk. The three muzungu guys then sat in the shade and watched the women of Beni march past. Each group had a banner in front, either of cloth or wood that said where they were from. There were school and church groups as well as company groups and organizations. Anyone who wanted to march I think just had to have a banner and a fabric picked out.

As they got to the end there was a covered pavilion, and sitting under it were all the important people of Beni. The mayor for instance was sitting on a couch in front. As the women would come by they would sing and dance and yell like they had not done before (even though the whole way before some had been singing and dancing in step as well). An MC would shout out the group of the women and everyone would cheer and shout. They even had a band to welcome them! It was pretty cool, except the women were still outside for 4+ hours start to finish!

One other cool thing about the march was the medics who were patrolling on the edges. Dressed in tan, they carried first aid kits and stretchers in case a need arose. Right before one group got to where we were sitting, a little girl fainted and they came running and quickly took her to the shade. It was good to see the medics there as that is something easily forgotten here in Congo.

Friday, March 6, 2009

It started already

I started working in the shamba (field) today. It was sunny, hot, and my winterized body from Wisconsin was really not appreciating it. I have probably drank a litre and a half of water since leaving the house this morning and just keep drinking water and taking it easy. I'm done with work for the day though because it's just too hot now, and I'm probably already sunburned anyway. I was trying to limit my exposure, but really should have asked for some sun-screen as I forgot mine at home. It's hard to tell though because I was walking through some tall grass (6ft+) and the edges are kind of sharp, so I know I got some minor scrapes and I could just be feeling those. Only time will tell.

Because agriculture things take a while to get going, I started cutting some grass this morning and gathering it to make compost. I have two guy working with me, and it was going pretty good. Now we are clearing land that was a field last year so the ground is not too bad. Some of the grasses here form clumps and the roots are like tree stumps, so next week when we cultivate new land, it will be difficult. We are probably going to have to cultivate the land a little with hoes and then go back with the tiller.

When I was done working because I was radiating enough heat to boil the sweat pouring off my body, I left the two guys to finish the work. In classic Congolese fashion, they worked for about 5 minutes and then I haven't seen them out there since. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt though that it was just too hot and they will do it later. They actually might too because they are hard working guys with the university. Only time will tell...

I'm hot

I arrived in Beni yesterday on a two propeller, 15 seat plane. It was a pretty good ride considering it was cloudy and overcast. A bit bumpy at the end, and visibility was poor, but I slept for about half the 50 minute ride. In classic Congo fashion, everyone on the plane applauded and clapped when we touched down. Let's just say there is a reason people pay a lot more to fly TMK than the other airlines in Congo.

My other travels were uneventful, except that God is awesome. The day before I left I met some people from church who work with a Rwandan organization with a guest house, so when I got to Kigali, they picked me up and I stayed there for the night. It's always good knowing someone is looking out for you. Goma was good too, although I was only there for a day. I saw a couple friends and there were two people at the guesthouse who come and go every year, and they are there now so it was cool to see them again. Everyone else there was new, and Joe and Lyn were gone, so it was different, but it was cool to be back. The flowers were beautiful and the lake was refreshing after two days of travelling.

The only other really interesting thing about my travels was the immigration official in the Goma airport who charged me $10 to write Beni on my VISA along with Goma. Apparently the officials at the boarder should have wrote it in, but I didn't know that, and apparently it's a new rule after the first of the year. I'm not sure how true that is though because I argued that last year I didn't need it and he never told me when the rule came into effect until after I told him I was there last year. Oh well. On the plus side, I understood everything he was telling me in Swahili, and even though I didn't like it, I still followed it all and was arguing for a long time. I actually wouldn't have given up except I heard them call my flight on the PA so paid him the money and got going.

Arriving at the Kasali's house was like coming home. The family there does such a good job of making you feel like family. Everyone was excited to see me, and whether I thought I accomplished a lot last time or not, everyone thanked me for my time before and thanked me for coming again. Everyone also asks about my fiance and where she is, and wonder when she is coming back to Congo too.

It is good to be back, and there is much to write about, but no time to write it. For now, it's 2:15 and lunch just arrived, so I'm off to eat.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Here we go again!

Hello again to the few (or many for all I know) who may read these random ramblings. I promise though they are all real and while random, actually happened (although maybe not in the order presented).

So it's been a while since the last posting, and to that, I apologize. My fiance came to visit in my last days in Congo and honestly, I lost all motivation to write while she was there, and didn't think about it when I was back. I've been thinking though I'll just keep writing this time about things even after I return.

Return from what? Well, Congo of course! I'm going back (tomorrow) to the University in Beni. It'll take like 4 days to get there, and I'll spend about 3 weeks there, and then a couple days in Goma and a week in Kenya and then I'll be back. All told, 5 weeks will have passed and I'm hoping to have seen God work in marvelous ways and that my relationship with him will be strengthened during that time.

So why the return trip? The last time I was in Beni, the leadership of UCBC (University Christian Bilingual of Congo) and I met to establish some agricultural goals for the many acres of land that are unused now. Not many (if any) of the things we discussed were acted upon since I left for many reasons. Also, two tillers arrived in a shipping container since I left (that dad and I ironically loaded before I left for Congo the first time!). This time will be a great time to see friends and hopefully learn a lot more about Congo. I do not know what God is calling my fiance and I to do in the future, but if He wants us to work overseas somewhere (maybe in Congo) we want to be ready. Learning as much as possible about international work is part of preparing for that.

I don't know how often I will be able to update the blog while in Congo but I'll do my best, and will for sure post more after my trip as well. Also, feel free to contact me with any comments or questions either on the comments on the blog, or at jdparsons86@gmail.com.

In other news, God is working in other ways besides international travel as I have just received a position at UW-Madison in the Plant breeding and Plant Genetics program starting this fall. I will be working with a professor on Carrots and don't know a lot about the specifics of my project, but know God is working! Madison is the best university for plant breeding and many people apply for only a few positions every year. Thank God for this incredible blessing!