Still Alive!

Well, it has been quite a while since the last post. Well, the first week was excused as I was in Kenya without access to internet, and the last week has more or less just been me being lazy and busy all at the same time.

I got back stateside last Tuesday and after the Easter holidays, things are finally falling into a routine. I am planning for writing on this blog being part of that routine. I also have some pictures that should show up online soon. I want to use the next couple weeks to write about different things I saw in Africa and different things about the way of life, and then also transition to life in general.

The Saga of the invalid VISA

This story starts, not with me, but with 5 Americans who got arrested after I arrived for going into the mining province illegally and taking pictures illegally. That kind of set the stage for the border patrol to say everyone must have a VISA before coming to Congo, made possible by the very new Congo embassy in America. Now you have to go to contact the embassy to get your VISA and they will no longer give you a VISA at the border, even the 8 day VISA that before was so easy to get. As I was leaving today, two Americans were turned away and walked back into Rwanda, not sure what they were going to do. Given this situation, it was all the worse that the VISA I got in Beni was no good.

I was in Beni with my 8 day VISA like always, and then someone from the school converted it for me. I wanted to leave Congo two weeks later so I said if I can get two more 8 day ones, that would be cheaper than the one month VISA, but I don't know if you can or not. They checked and the guys at the OFFICIAL office in Beni gave me a 15 day VISA, costing the price of two 8 day VISAs, or 70 dollars. Everything is fine, and I leave Beni, the 15 day VISA passing through the hands of no less than 4 immigration officials at the airport who all say nothing about it being a problem.

I arrive at the airport in Goma, the last 10 minutes of the ride being pretty bumpy as only a small airplane can be, and my stomach was a little startled. It wasn't feeling too bad, but it definitely wasn't right. Oh well, no need to worry as I was almost back to Maji Matulivu and I could grab some food and relax a bit. It was just about 1pm.

I waited in line for immigration at the airport and when it was my turn, it didn't take more than two minutes before they took the passport of the last muzungu behind me and put mine aside. Sure I thought, hold back the young kid in hopes we can get some money out of him. I have been asked for money before, and it looked like another time I arrived in the airport.

They finish with the other guy and there are three people behind the desk and they begin asking where my visa is. I show them the paper I have that says 15 days on it and they keep looking in my passport. Beyond a week visa, it is stamped in the passport. I showed them the paper and the four people (a woman came now too) were all talking about different things. The one person kept talking about not having a visa, another talked about the list of places on the paper that I could go, and another guy was talking about something completely different. It was hard to follow them all, and they would periodically turn and ask me things.

At one point I got them all to listen to what had happened, how I went to the OFFICIAL OFFICE in Beni for immigration and that was what they gave me and they could call there and see. Finally an older officer came over too and he recognized me (as he should since I had to give him 10 dollars to write "Beni" on my original visa because it only said "Goma") and it sounded like he was arguing for me, taking on two of the guys at once, and more or less winning, but then just agreeing with the third guy.

I get shuffled into the side office, and they begin to ask me things like "do I know it's illegal to not have a VISA in Congo?" I kept saying yes, but I have one. Turns out, two week VISAs don't exist, and given the Perfect Storm of other events happening since I went to Beni, it really was a big deal.

I called the logistics people at HEAL Africa and the immigration people ended up taking me to the official office in the city. There I talked to the head guy (who did not know Swahili so they translated his French to Swahili for me) who again acted like I had done this on purpose. They called Beni and got my official record there, showing that they gave me a two week VISA and even how much I paid for it. Oh well. They put me in another office where an official filled out a formal report, three handwritten pages, carbon copied, and I had to sign them all. It was in French too so the logistics guy from HEAL translated for me, again into Swahili. I signed them, handed over (well, it was actually under) 150 dollars and everything seemed like it would be okay. By this time it was after 4pm when the office was supposed to be closed, and they kept my passport saying we could get it the next day.

Well, we never got it the next day because they wanted another 100 dollars before they gave it back. Saturday I came to HEAL with the money and the logistics guy went to the office and got my passport. I was looking at it and there still was no VISA! I asked and he said they would have my name at the border and it won't be a problem. Well, to me that sounds kind of like a problem.

I went to the border with a friend and the two Americans were just turned away before me. They looked at my passport, turning each page looking for the VISA. They went into a back office and came out looking confused. My friend went and talked to the guy and then they called me back too. Turns out, they wanted 50 more dollars, which my friend said no way to, and I told him what had happened and he said "Okay, hakuna shida" (no problem). 10 minutes later, my passport was stamped (on like the second page, and I'm on page 6 or so) and I was on my way.

I hopped on a bus on the Rwandan side, and three hours later I was in Kigali. Kind of a crappy situation, but nothing else I could do. There was no higher authority to appeal to and now I know next time to get my VISA in America before I get here.

The Beginning of the End

Today is my last day in Beni :( I'm not entirely sure how I feel about it. I'm excited to go to Goma and see what has happened there since I left, but also don't really want to leave. The problem with Beni is it feels like home. It just feels comfortable and the people are nice and it is quiet (well, except the kids yelling “muzungu”, “good morning”, and “give me my money” (interestingly, they usually say “give me my money” like it is already theirs and you are only holding on to it for them)). But tomorrow I head to Goma (where everything is in shades of gray from the lava rocks and dust) and either Saturday or Sunday I'll head to Kigali. Monday is to Nairobi where I'll spend a week doing who knows what (well, I hope someone knows because I don't know what I'll be doing).

Looking back, it's easy to see all the things that I didn't do, or that didn't go so well. The tiller tire has caused numerous problems, the weather, the students weren't very involved with what I was doing this time, only half the rabbit's houses were built, I did not do any teaching outside of Delphin and Isengo, etc...

But that would put a huge damper on all that was accomplished. There is a field where there previously was none. Isengo and Delphin know how to use the tiller (when it works) and do a pretty good job with it. They are beginning to notice while operating the tiller if there is a problem, and know to shut the tiller off before untangling the weeds from the tines. Isengo especially seems really comfortable with it and as they take care of the crops that are there now and have extra time, they will be able to expand the field with the tillers in a more responsible way than had I not come. The problem with machines in Congo is they are often abused and not taken care of, and hopefully the tillers will be taken care of.

We have three rabbit houses, and most of the materials for three more. Last time I was here, I tried to get materials to build rabbit houses for three days and then we got some wood for something and then the tools didn't work and that was already the last day I was here, so the fact that we have three houses built is awesome. They are neither plumb nor square, but they are not going anywhere. They are built solidly and look halfway decent too. Even though the university doesn't have the rabbits yet, I'm confident that with the houses built, they will get some soon.

I didn't work a lot with the students, but I did get to talk to many of them, some for the first time, and some I had met last year. I had some very good conversations about Congolese life and what the students saw as some of the problems of Congo and potential ways of fixing them. It was very encouraging to me to see the hope of the students and hear their talk about changing Congo for the better. Quite often though I just tried to get to know the students as much as possible, asking about their families, what they are studying, why, etc...

I didn't get to speak or teach to a lot of people, but I did encourage many. Just being here is great and I tried to help wherever I could and to talk with the family members at the house and use my Swahili as much as possible. I'm really surprised by how much Swahili I remembered, and it really helped me to work with Isengo and Delphin since neither guy knew English. Some times were frustrating, but I would work out some way of saying what I wanted in Swahili. Congolese people were always so excited to hear that a muzungu knew Swahili and especially when I would talk to them in Swahili.

Now that I'm getting ready to leave the question people ask the most is "when are you coming back?" It is a question I don't know the answer to, but I do know if God says "go back to Beni," I would not think twice about it. The only thing is, when I come back, I won't be traveling alone, as I believe my fiance (and by the time I would come back, my wife) will not let me go anywhere again without her. Don't worry Mupenzi (my Love), I miss you too.

Unalamuka?

Yesterday as I was playing cards with some of the other muzungus here (most of whom are sick), we started wondering why people say certain expressions. Like “I'm head over heels for you”. I could be wrong, but isn't your head supposed to be over your heels? If it were something special, shouldn't it be heels over head?

This morning it hit me what people say when they see you in the morning. “Unalamuka?” They say it as a question although the exact translation would be “You are awake?” Well, if you see me to ask me if I'm awake, wouldn't it be obvious that yes, nililamuka (I awoke)? The correct response is “ndio” (yes). What is so funny though is sometimes the Congolese ask it in such a way that they sound really surprised. Even if it's when you normally wake up, every day “unalamuka?” in a very surprised voice.

In a place where doing something as simple as buying simple hand tools for agriculture can take a couple days, I'm taking the progress we're making as a good sign. Today we are actually building the rabbit houses (after much talk) and last week we were in the fields. This afternoon after the sun's intensity abates, we will water the cabbages in the fields (which are finally starting to hold their own and not look dead in the afternoon when they previously wilted every day) and then we will plant carrot seeds. I brought four seed varieties from UW-Madison to plant here and workers here will fill out a small report to help the plant breeders back home (of which I will be one in September:) ). I'm planting them at the university and the house I'm staying at so I hope to get two reports, but I'm spreading the risk and at least looking for one.
Saturday should have been a work day except I went to the market with the mama of the house, and then when I got back I took another muzungu to the hospital (doctor). I was the only muzungu left (out of 6) who could drive and was not sick. Turns out, it was pretty bad and since Saturday she has stayed in her bed, only to make short forays to the bathroom and outside for a bit. Two others have malaria, and one is just recovering from Typhoid.

I leave Beni on Thursday, so the next three days will be very busy as we try to do as much as possible during the day and I work on instructions to leave here when I go, written in my best Swahili (and probably a little (or a lot) of help) for the guy who will be taking care of the fields when I leave. He is an extremely hard worker, but I want to leave some agriculture instructions. Things like crop rotations and please don't let weeds take over the fields after harvesting a crop, and cutting the weeds around the field when they are in flower so they do not go to seed. Simple things that are often overlooked here (although people do talk about them).

The warm room I'm in right now is usually quiet, and it's a good place to eat lunch (rice and beans) and write e-mails or blog posts. I usually chat with the students, but when the choir practices, it's so loud I can't hear what's being said anyway. New this year for lunch is a chest freezer where they keep and sell soda. The freezer is great because when the generator comes on in the morning, the soda is cool by lunch time. Now I'm enjoying a Mirinda. I believe it is a black currant flavor, and it is honestly my favorite soda ever. It was one of the things I was looking forward to about coming back. Not one of the main reasons for coming, but a very nice side bonus. If only I could find Mirinda in Wisconsin...

Two gifts from God

Among the many gifts and ways UCBC has seen God work in the last couple years, I have seen two awesome ones myself the last two days.

The first is the cooperation of the weather and the expansion of the field.  The tiller went out yesterday and we used it until we ran out of gas (we had 10 liters, put 3 in the machine, and the other 7 disappeared).  We got the field ready to plant, which we did this morning.  Now, as I speak, we have more gas and the two guys working with me are out there now, tilling up the rest of the land that was broken with the hoes.  There are way more cabbages ready in the nursery than we have space for now (and more than I think we will even know what to do with) and the tiller is doing a wonderful job of getting the space ready for planting.  It is so exciting to see these two guys working with the tillers, unclogging the tines when they have to, and in general, just doing a really good job.  It's also interesting to see the people who walk past the school to get water from a spring stop and stare at the machine like they usually stop and stare at the muzungu working in the field.  Maybe red is the new white?

In other agriculture news, yesterday we bought all the materials we will need for the rabbit houses so that is exciting.  Now if the weather doesn't cooperate, we can work on those.

The other tremendous gift from God was the dedication of the UCBC bus this morning.  There is no public transport in Beni (except motorcycles which are more expensive than busses) so the university has been praying for and waiting for a bus for a long time.  Last year, one of the students was severely injured in an accident while she was walking home, and there have been several less severe accidents as well.  Provided for by many small donations, and one large one, the bus arrived in Beni a couple weeks ago and as exams finished up last Friday and we head into the new semester, they commissioned the bus this morning.  To pay for it's operation, the students will pay round trip fare every day, enough to cover the gas, driver, and put some aside for repairs.  For students that cannot pay, that might be something that will come under a student sponsorship program soon.  Either way though, it was a wonderful dedication.

They had all the students assemble for chapel outside today, on the large "porch" of the building and the singing was louder and there were more shouts than I have ever seen at chapel at UCBC.  The director's brother, a retired and well respected pastor, gave a message of hope and joy and thanks to God, and then the staff and students surrounded the bus and prayed for it.  Then started about 10 minutes of picture taking.  First with everyone, then with the staff, then just the teachers, then just the administration, then the director and his wife, then the drivers, etc...  Everyone was so excited!  There was also renewed hope as well since God provided one bus, He will faithfully provide for the building materials and money needed, and as the director put it, 7 more busses so they will have a fleet of busses and they will need them because of the students that will be at UCBC in the future.  Praise God for providing good weather, and also for providing for this huge need of UCBC, a bus, so the students will be safer, and have more time to work on homework instead of walking an hour and a half to and from school every day (that is what these fine young men and women will be doing with their time now right?).

And the land still isn't tilled...

On the plus side of the tillers still not seeing much action, the Congolese guys are beginning to believe me when I told them that the machines are good, but not perfect. When they first came, everyone thought they would just open up all the space in the whole city of Beni for planting, and as we have struggled to get one of them up and running, I think people are finally seeing the truth.

I talked to the director about bringing both machines to the school today and he didn't think it was a good idea. It would be better if only one machine was there and the other stayed in storage. That way, it would force the workers to really take care of that one machine and really learn how to use it vs. till as much land as possible as quickly as possible. I actually like that idea, so now we are trying to fix the tire of the one at the school.

We tried to pump the tire at the house and it didn't work. Then we tried again today and the valve just popped off! Now there is a hole the size of the valve in the tire. No wonder it didn't want to pump up. Anyway, I just sent it into town with someone and hopefully we can fix it. If it works, I'm thinking that should be the last problem, outside of the weather.

It rained again last night, so even had the tiller been working, we wouldn't have been able to use it. We have cabbages that need to be transplanted though so the two guys working with me were using the hoes to break up the soil better and removing all the weeds and roots to make good planting beds the old fashioned way. I raked a large area we cut before so the rotor tiller won't struggle so much and if we have to use the hoes, that will be easier too.

I am beginning to think maybe God is saying don't use the machines, or is trying to teach us a lesson. Machines are good, but they have their own problems. I hope the workers here will be able to respect the machines and use them when it is a lot better to use the machine, and not when it is just easier to use them.

I should have known...

I don't know what I was thinking when I thought that it would be a simple matter of taking the tiller to the field and giving it a go in the Congo soil. I should have known nothing goes according to plan in Congo...

At first, everything seemed to be working fine. I turned the machine on, and picking up the rear, engaged the wheels so it would propel itself forward. It only had a couple yards to go to the field, which it covered with ease, and then I put the back down to start tilling.

It was going forward and then it stopped - the tines stop pretty easily on this model. I let go of the throttle, putting it in neutral, and let the machine idle a bit as I checked out the back. Two things were "wrong." First, the depth was set really shallow so it was really just tilling the top root zone which would be the hardest part. I deepened the depth gauge hoping to till more soil and less roots with each pass, and maybe slow the tiller down. Alas, the wheels are locked to the tines, so you really can't slow the tiller down that much. The second problem was the hiller/furrower attachment that was bogging the machine down by being caught in the soil and the machine didn't have enough strength to pull it through. I could take care of that later though with a wrench. So I stood up to go again.

"What's that?" one of the students asked as he picked up a screw. "It's hot, I think it's from the machine." Oh great. Just what we ned, although not a problem. We have screw drivers and Allen wrenches, I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out. I look at it and my heart sank. Where the heck are we going to find a six-pronged star driver/wrench/thing in Congo?

The screw had come from part of the engine, and we knew it where it was supposed to go because there was another one still in the engine and a gaping hole on the other side of the part where the missing screw needed to go.

I was ready to call it a day and we took the tiller up to the Depot (the workshop) and talked to different people about what to do. We had just decided to send someone into town with the screw and either find a driver for it or come back with a screw exactly the same, but with a different head, when we started playing around with the tiller. We ended up getting it on with an Allen wrench (I left to look for something while we were working on getting the hiller/furrower part off and when I came back it was miraculously on, tight, and the Allen wrench was sitting next to it - I hope we don't have to get it off, because it probably won't come off with the stripped top). The hiller attachment bold was really, really difficult and I'm thinking it must have been knocked during transport and bent because it was loose in the hole, but the bold was extremely difficult to get off. We ended up breaking the bolt off, so that attachment came off too. Now the only thing is a slightly flat tire, but we wanted to give it a shot anyway - To the field!

We get it to the field and a small group gathers as we turn it on and start tilling. It goes into the soil marvellously, but didn't go anywhere. Oh yeah, I had to lock wheels into place. That done, we go!

The tiller went in and I thought it was going great, except the tines stopped moving. Whenever it gets the least bit difficult, the tines just stop, which is slightly disappointing because it would be good if the tines could keep working without the wheels going. Oh well. It skidded across the top. Then I reversed it and did it again. A little deeper, but still across the top. 4 passes later it looks pretty good, but there is only 3-4 inches of till depth and the weed stems (cut, but still there) and roots had also begun to wrap around the tines. And this was only in the part that was planted just last year without anything major growing in it.

So now we will have to use the big jembe (hoe) first and break the soil, remove as many weeds as is feasible, and then use the tillers. We'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it works. I would like to get the other tiller to UCBC tomorrow too so I will see if I can get David to take it. Tomorrow we start with the jembe, then try again with the tillers. Wish us luck!