Well, it has been quite a while since the last post. Well, the first week was excused as I was in Kenya without access to internet, and the last week has more or less just been me being lazy and busy all at the same time.
I got back stateside last Tuesday and after the Easter holidays, things are finally falling into a routine. I am planning for writing on this blog being part of that routine. I also have some pictures that should show up online soon. I want to use the next couple weeks to write about different things I saw in Africa and different things about the way of life, and then also transition to life in general.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Sunday, March 29, 2009
The Saga of the invalid VISA
This story starts, not with me, but with 5 Americans who got arrested after I arrived for going into the mining province illegally and taking pictures illegally. That kind of set the stage for the border patrol to say everyone must have a VISA before coming to Congo, made possible by the very new Congo embassy in America. Now you have to go to contact the embassy to get your VISA and they will no longer give you a VISA at the border, even the 8 day VISA that before was so easy to get. As I was leaving today, two Americans were turned away and walked back into Rwanda, not sure what they were going to do. Given this situation, it was all the worse that the VISA I got in Beni was no good.
I was in Beni with my 8 day VISA like always, and then someone from the school converted it for me. I wanted to leave Congo two weeks later so I said if I can get two more 8 day ones, that would be cheaper than the one month VISA, but I don't know if you can or not. They checked and the guys at the OFFICIAL office in Beni gave me a 15 day VISA, costing the price of two 8 day VISAs, or 70 dollars. Everything is fine, and I leave Beni, the 15 day VISA passing through the hands of no less than 4 immigration officials at the airport who all say nothing about it being a problem.
I arrive at the airport in Goma, the last 10 minutes of the ride being pretty bumpy as only a small airplane can be, and my stomach was a little startled. It wasn't feeling too bad, but it definitely wasn't right. Oh well, no need to worry as I was almost back to Maji Matulivu and I could grab some food and relax a bit. It was just about 1pm.
I waited in line for immigration at the airport and when it was my turn, it didn't take more than two minutes before they took the passport of the last muzungu behind me and put mine aside. Sure I thought, hold back the young kid in hopes we can get some money out of him. I have been asked for money before, and it looked like another time I arrived in the airport.
They finish with the other guy and there are three people behind the desk and they begin asking where my visa is. I show them the paper I have that says 15 days on it and they keep looking in my passport. Beyond a week visa, it is stamped in the passport. I showed them the paper and the four people (a woman came now too) were all talking about different things. The one person kept talking about not having a visa, another talked about the list of places on the paper that I could go, and another guy was talking about something completely different. It was hard to follow them all, and they would periodically turn and ask me things.
At one point I got them all to listen to what had happened, how I went to the OFFICIAL OFFICE in Beni for immigration and that was what they gave me and they could call there and see. Finally an older officer came over too and he recognized me (as he should since I had to give him 10 dollars to write "Beni" on my original visa because it only said "Goma") and it sounded like he was arguing for me, taking on two of the guys at once, and more or less winning, but then just agreeing with the third guy.
I get shuffled into the side office, and they begin to ask me things like "do I know it's illegal to not have a VISA in Congo?" I kept saying yes, but I have one. Turns out, two week VISAs don't exist, and given the Perfect Storm of other events happening since I went to Beni, it really was a big deal.
I called the logistics people at HEAL Africa and the immigration people ended up taking me to the official office in the city. There I talked to the head guy (who did not know Swahili so they translated his French to Swahili for me) who again acted like I had done this on purpose. They called Beni and got my official record there, showing that they gave me a two week VISA and even how much I paid for it. Oh well. They put me in another office where an official filled out a formal report, three handwritten pages, carbon copied, and I had to sign them all. It was in French too so the logistics guy from HEAL translated for me, again into Swahili. I signed them, handed over (well, it was actually under) 150 dollars and everything seemed like it would be okay. By this time it was after 4pm when the office was supposed to be closed, and they kept my passport saying we could get it the next day.
Well, we never got it the next day because they wanted another 100 dollars before they gave it back. Saturday I came to HEAL with the money and the logistics guy went to the office and got my passport. I was looking at it and there still was no VISA! I asked and he said they would have my name at the border and it won't be a problem. Well, to me that sounds kind of like a problem.
I went to the border with a friend and the two Americans were just turned away before me. They looked at my passport, turning each page looking for the VISA. They went into a back office and came out looking confused. My friend went and talked to the guy and then they called me back too. Turns out, they wanted 50 more dollars, which my friend said no way to, and I told him what had happened and he said "Okay, hakuna shida" (no problem). 10 minutes later, my passport was stamped (on like the second page, and I'm on page 6 or so) and I was on my way.
I hopped on a bus on the Rwandan side, and three hours later I was in Kigali. Kind of a crappy situation, but nothing else I could do. There was no higher authority to appeal to and now I know next time to get my VISA in America before I get here.
I was in Beni with my 8 day VISA like always, and then someone from the school converted it for me. I wanted to leave Congo two weeks later so I said if I can get two more 8 day ones, that would be cheaper than the one month VISA, but I don't know if you can or not. They checked and the guys at the OFFICIAL office in Beni gave me a 15 day VISA, costing the price of two 8 day VISAs, or 70 dollars. Everything is fine, and I leave Beni, the 15 day VISA passing through the hands of no less than 4 immigration officials at the airport who all say nothing about it being a problem.
I arrive at the airport in Goma, the last 10 minutes of the ride being pretty bumpy as only a small airplane can be, and my stomach was a little startled. It wasn't feeling too bad, but it definitely wasn't right. Oh well, no need to worry as I was almost back to Maji Matulivu and I could grab some food and relax a bit. It was just about 1pm.
I waited in line for immigration at the airport and when it was my turn, it didn't take more than two minutes before they took the passport of the last muzungu behind me and put mine aside. Sure I thought, hold back the young kid in hopes we can get some money out of him. I have been asked for money before, and it looked like another time I arrived in the airport.
They finish with the other guy and there are three people behind the desk and they begin asking where my visa is. I show them the paper I have that says 15 days on it and they keep looking in my passport. Beyond a week visa, it is stamped in the passport. I showed them the paper and the four people (a woman came now too) were all talking about different things. The one person kept talking about not having a visa, another talked about the list of places on the paper that I could go, and another guy was talking about something completely different. It was hard to follow them all, and they would periodically turn and ask me things.
At one point I got them all to listen to what had happened, how I went to the OFFICIAL OFFICE in Beni for immigration and that was what they gave me and they could call there and see. Finally an older officer came over too and he recognized me (as he should since I had to give him 10 dollars to write "Beni" on my original visa because it only said "Goma") and it sounded like he was arguing for me, taking on two of the guys at once, and more or less winning, but then just agreeing with the third guy.
I get shuffled into the side office, and they begin to ask me things like "do I know it's illegal to not have a VISA in Congo?" I kept saying yes, but I have one. Turns out, two week VISAs don't exist, and given the Perfect Storm of other events happening since I went to Beni, it really was a big deal.
I called the logistics people at HEAL Africa and the immigration people ended up taking me to the official office in the city. There I talked to the head guy (who did not know Swahili so they translated his French to Swahili for me) who again acted like I had done this on purpose. They called Beni and got my official record there, showing that they gave me a two week VISA and even how much I paid for it. Oh well. They put me in another office where an official filled out a formal report, three handwritten pages, carbon copied, and I had to sign them all. It was in French too so the logistics guy from HEAL translated for me, again into Swahili. I signed them, handed over (well, it was actually under) 150 dollars and everything seemed like it would be okay. By this time it was after 4pm when the office was supposed to be closed, and they kept my passport saying we could get it the next day.
Well, we never got it the next day because they wanted another 100 dollars before they gave it back. Saturday I came to HEAL with the money and the logistics guy went to the office and got my passport. I was looking at it and there still was no VISA! I asked and he said they would have my name at the border and it won't be a problem. Well, to me that sounds kind of like a problem.
I went to the border with a friend and the two Americans were just turned away before me. They looked at my passport, turning each page looking for the VISA. They went into a back office and came out looking confused. My friend went and talked to the guy and then they called me back too. Turns out, they wanted 50 more dollars, which my friend said no way to, and I told him what had happened and he said "Okay, hakuna shida" (no problem). 10 minutes later, my passport was stamped (on like the second page, and I'm on page 6 or so) and I was on my way.
I hopped on a bus on the Rwandan side, and three hours later I was in Kigali. Kind of a crappy situation, but nothing else I could do. There was no higher authority to appeal to and now I know next time to get my VISA in America before I get here.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
The Beginning of the End
Today is my last day in Beni :( I'm not entirely sure how I feel about it. I'm excited to go to Goma and see what has happened there since I left, but also don't really want to leave. The problem with Beni is it feels like home. It just feels comfortable and the people are nice and it is quiet (well, except the kids yelling “muzungu”, “good morning”, and “give me my money” (interestingly, they usually say “give me my money” like it is already theirs and you are only holding on to it for them)). But tomorrow I head to Goma (where everything is in shades of gray from the lava rocks and dust) and either Saturday or Sunday I'll head to Kigali. Monday is to Nairobi where I'll spend a week doing who knows what (well, I hope someone knows because I don't know what I'll be doing).
Looking back, it's easy to see all the things that I didn't do, or that didn't go so well. The tiller tire has caused numerous problems, the weather, the students weren't very involved with what I was doing this time, only half the rabbit's houses were built, I did not do any teaching outside of Delphin and Isengo, etc...
But that would put a huge damper on all that was accomplished. There is a field where there previously was none. Isengo and Delphin know how to use the tiller (when it works) and do a pretty good job with it. They are beginning to notice while operating the tiller if there is a problem, and know to shut the tiller off before untangling the weeds from the tines. Isengo especially seems really comfortable with it and as they take care of the crops that are there now and have extra time, they will be able to expand the field with the tillers in a more responsible way than had I not come. The problem with machines in Congo is they are often abused and not taken care of, and hopefully the tillers will be taken care of.
We have three rabbit houses, and most of the materials for three more. Last time I was here, I tried to get materials to build rabbit houses for three days and then we got some wood for something and then the tools didn't work and that was already the last day I was here, so the fact that we have three houses built is awesome. They are neither plumb nor square, but they are not going anywhere. They are built solidly and look halfway decent too. Even though the university doesn't have the rabbits yet, I'm confident that with the houses built, they will get some soon.
I didn't work a lot with the students, but I did get to talk to many of them, some for the first time, and some I had met last year. I had some very good conversations about Congolese life and what the students saw as some of the problems of Congo and potential ways of fixing them. It was very encouraging to me to see the hope of the students and hear their talk about changing Congo for the better. Quite often though I just tried to get to know the students as much as possible, asking about their families, what they are studying, why, etc...
I didn't get to speak or teach to a lot of people, but I did encourage many. Just being here is great and I tried to help wherever I could and to talk with the family members at the house and use my Swahili as much as possible. I'm really surprised by how much Swahili I remembered, and it really helped me to work with Isengo and Delphin since neither guy knew English. Some times were frustrating, but I would work out some way of saying what I wanted in Swahili. Congolese people were always so excited to hear that a muzungu knew Swahili and especially when I would talk to them in Swahili.
Now that I'm getting ready to leave the question people ask the most is "when are you coming back?" It is a question I don't know the answer to, but I do know if God says "go back to Beni," I would not think twice about it. The only thing is, when I come back, I won't be traveling alone, as I believe my fiance (and by the time I would come back, my wife) will not let me go anywhere again without her. Don't worry Mupenzi (my Love), I miss you too.
Looking back, it's easy to see all the things that I didn't do, or that didn't go so well. The tiller tire has caused numerous problems, the weather, the students weren't very involved with what I was doing this time, only half the rabbit's houses were built, I did not do any teaching outside of Delphin and Isengo, etc...
But that would put a huge damper on all that was accomplished. There is a field where there previously was none. Isengo and Delphin know how to use the tiller (when it works) and do a pretty good job with it. They are beginning to notice while operating the tiller if there is a problem, and know to shut the tiller off before untangling the weeds from the tines. Isengo especially seems really comfortable with it and as they take care of the crops that are there now and have extra time, they will be able to expand the field with the tillers in a more responsible way than had I not come. The problem with machines in Congo is they are often abused and not taken care of, and hopefully the tillers will be taken care of.
We have three rabbit houses, and most of the materials for three more. Last time I was here, I tried to get materials to build rabbit houses for three days and then we got some wood for something and then the tools didn't work and that was already the last day I was here, so the fact that we have three houses built is awesome. They are neither plumb nor square, but they are not going anywhere. They are built solidly and look halfway decent too. Even though the university doesn't have the rabbits yet, I'm confident that with the houses built, they will get some soon.
I didn't work a lot with the students, but I did get to talk to many of them, some for the first time, and some I had met last year. I had some very good conversations about Congolese life and what the students saw as some of the problems of Congo and potential ways of fixing them. It was very encouraging to me to see the hope of the students and hear their talk about changing Congo for the better. Quite often though I just tried to get to know the students as much as possible, asking about their families, what they are studying, why, etc...
I didn't get to speak or teach to a lot of people, but I did encourage many. Just being here is great and I tried to help wherever I could and to talk with the family members at the house and use my Swahili as much as possible. I'm really surprised by how much Swahili I remembered, and it really helped me to work with Isengo and Delphin since neither guy knew English. Some times were frustrating, but I would work out some way of saying what I wanted in Swahili. Congolese people were always so excited to hear that a muzungu knew Swahili and especially when I would talk to them in Swahili.
Now that I'm getting ready to leave the question people ask the most is "when are you coming back?" It is a question I don't know the answer to, but I do know if God says "go back to Beni," I would not think twice about it. The only thing is, when I come back, I won't be traveling alone, as I believe my fiance (and by the time I would come back, my wife) will not let me go anywhere again without her. Don't worry Mupenzi (my Love), I miss you too.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Unalamuka?
Yesterday as I was playing cards with some of the other muzungus here (most of whom are sick), we started wondering why people say certain expressions. Like “I'm head over heels for you”. I could be wrong, but isn't your head supposed to be over your heels? If it were something special, shouldn't it be heels over head?
This morning it hit me what people say when they see you in the morning. “Unalamuka?” They say it as a question although the exact translation would be “You are awake?” Well, if you see me to ask me if I'm awake, wouldn't it be obvious that yes, nililamuka (I awoke)? The correct response is “ndio” (yes). What is so funny though is sometimes the Congolese ask it in such a way that they sound really surprised. Even if it's when you normally wake up, every day “unalamuka?” in a very surprised voice.
In a place where doing something as simple as buying simple hand tools for agriculture can take a couple days, I'm taking the progress we're making as a good sign. Today we are actually building the rabbit houses (after much talk) and last week we were in the fields. This afternoon after the sun's intensity abates, we will water the cabbages in the fields (which are finally starting to hold their own and not look dead in the afternoon when they previously wilted every day) and then we will plant carrot seeds. I brought four seed varieties from UW-Madison to plant here and workers here will fill out a small report to help the plant breeders back home (of which I will be one in September:) ). I'm planting them at the university and the house I'm staying at so I hope to get two reports, but I'm spreading the risk and at least looking for one.
Saturday should have been a work day except I went to the market with the mama of the house, and then when I got back I took another muzungu to the hospital (doctor). I was the only muzungu left (out of 6) who could drive and was not sick. Turns out, it was pretty bad and since Saturday she has stayed in her bed, only to make short forays to the bathroom and outside for a bit. Two others have malaria, and one is just recovering from Typhoid.
I leave Beni on Thursday, so the next three days will be very busy as we try to do as much as possible during the day and I work on instructions to leave here when I go, written in my best Swahili (and probably a little (or a lot) of help) for the guy who will be taking care of the fields when I leave. He is an extremely hard worker, but I want to leave some agriculture instructions. Things like crop rotations and please don't let weeds take over the fields after harvesting a crop, and cutting the weeds around the field when they are in flower so they do not go to seed. Simple things that are often overlooked here (although people do talk about them).
The warm room I'm in right now is usually quiet, and it's a good place to eat lunch (rice and beans) and write e-mails or blog posts. I usually chat with the students, but when the choir practices, it's so loud I can't hear what's being said anyway. New this year for lunch is a chest freezer where they keep and sell soda. The freezer is great because when the generator comes on in the morning, the soda is cool by lunch time. Now I'm enjoying a Mirinda. I believe it is a black currant flavor, and it is honestly my favorite soda ever. It was one of the things I was looking forward to about coming back. Not one of the main reasons for coming, but a very nice side bonus. If only I could find Mirinda in Wisconsin...
This morning it hit me what people say when they see you in the morning. “Unalamuka?” They say it as a question although the exact translation would be “You are awake?” Well, if you see me to ask me if I'm awake, wouldn't it be obvious that yes, nililamuka (I awoke)? The correct response is “ndio” (yes). What is so funny though is sometimes the Congolese ask it in such a way that they sound really surprised. Even if it's when you normally wake up, every day “unalamuka?” in a very surprised voice.
In a place where doing something as simple as buying simple hand tools for agriculture can take a couple days, I'm taking the progress we're making as a good sign. Today we are actually building the rabbit houses (after much talk) and last week we were in the fields. This afternoon after the sun's intensity abates, we will water the cabbages in the fields (which are finally starting to hold their own and not look dead in the afternoon when they previously wilted every day) and then we will plant carrot seeds. I brought four seed varieties from UW-Madison to plant here and workers here will fill out a small report to help the plant breeders back home (of which I will be one in September:) ). I'm planting them at the university and the house I'm staying at so I hope to get two reports, but I'm spreading the risk and at least looking for one.
Saturday should have been a work day except I went to the market with the mama of the house, and then when I got back I took another muzungu to the hospital (doctor). I was the only muzungu left (out of 6) who could drive and was not sick. Turns out, it was pretty bad and since Saturday she has stayed in her bed, only to make short forays to the bathroom and outside for a bit. Two others have malaria, and one is just recovering from Typhoid.
I leave Beni on Thursday, so the next three days will be very busy as we try to do as much as possible during the day and I work on instructions to leave here when I go, written in my best Swahili (and probably a little (or a lot) of help) for the guy who will be taking care of the fields when I leave. He is an extremely hard worker, but I want to leave some agriculture instructions. Things like crop rotations and please don't let weeds take over the fields after harvesting a crop, and cutting the weeds around the field when they are in flower so they do not go to seed. Simple things that are often overlooked here (although people do talk about them).
The warm room I'm in right now is usually quiet, and it's a good place to eat lunch (rice and beans) and write e-mails or blog posts. I usually chat with the students, but when the choir practices, it's so loud I can't hear what's being said anyway. New this year for lunch is a chest freezer where they keep and sell soda. The freezer is great because when the generator comes on in the morning, the soda is cool by lunch time. Now I'm enjoying a Mirinda. I believe it is a black currant flavor, and it is honestly my favorite soda ever. It was one of the things I was looking forward to about coming back. Not one of the main reasons for coming, but a very nice side bonus. If only I could find Mirinda in Wisconsin...
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Two gifts from God
Among the many gifts and ways UCBC has seen God work in the last couple years, I have seen two awesome ones myself the last two days.
The first is the cooperation of the weather and the expansion of the field. The tiller went out yesterday and we used it until we ran out of gas (we had 10 liters, put 3 in the machine, and the other 7 disappeared). We got the field ready to plant, which we did this morning. Now, as I speak, we have more gas and the two guys working with me are out there now, tilling up the rest of the land that was broken with the hoes. There are way more cabbages ready in the nursery than we have space for now (and more than I think we will even know what to do with) and the tiller is doing a wonderful job of getting the space ready for planting. It is so exciting to see these two guys working with the tillers, unclogging the tines when they have to, and in general, just doing a really good job. It's also interesting to see the people who walk past the school to get water from a spring stop and stare at the machine like they usually stop and stare at the muzungu working in the field. Maybe red is the new white?
In other agriculture news, yesterday we bought all the materials we will need for the rabbit houses so that is exciting. Now if the weather doesn't cooperate, we can work on those.
The other tremendous gift from God was the dedication of the UCBC bus this morning. There is no public transport in Beni (except motorcycles which are more expensive than busses) so the university has been praying for and waiting for a bus for a long time. Last year, one of the students was severely injured in an accident while she was walking home, and there have been several less severe accidents as well. Provided for by many small donations, and one large one, the bus arrived in Beni a couple weeks ago and as exams finished up last Friday and we head into the new semester, they commissioned the bus this morning. To pay for it's operation, the students will pay round trip fare every day, enough to cover the gas, driver, and put some aside for repairs. For students that cannot pay, that might be something that will come under a student sponsorship program soon. Either way though, it was a wonderful dedication.
They had all the students assemble for chapel outside today, on the large "porch" of the building and the singing was louder and there were more shouts than I have ever seen at chapel at UCBC. The director's brother, a retired and well respected pastor, gave a message of hope and joy and thanks to God, and then the staff and students surrounded the bus and prayed for it. Then started about 10 minutes of picture taking. First with everyone, then with the staff, then just the teachers, then just the administration, then the director and his wife, then the drivers, etc... Everyone was so excited! There was also renewed hope as well since God provided one bus, He will faithfully provide for the building materials and money needed, and as the director put it, 7 more busses so they will have a fleet of busses and they will need them because of the students that will be at UCBC in the future. Praise God for providing good weather, and also for providing for this huge need of UCBC, a bus, so the students will be safer, and have more time to work on homework instead of walking an hour and a half to and from school every day (that is what these fine young men and women will be doing with their time now right?).
Friday, March 13, 2009
And the land still isn't tilled...
On the plus side of the tillers still not seeing much action, the Congolese guys are beginning to believe me when I told them that the machines are good, but not perfect. When they first came, everyone thought they would just open up all the space in the whole city of Beni for planting, and as we have struggled to get one of them up and running, I think people are finally seeing the truth.
I talked to the director about bringing both machines to the school today and he didn't think it was a good idea. It would be better if only one machine was there and the other stayed in storage. That way, it would force the workers to really take care of that one machine and really learn how to use it vs. till as much land as possible as quickly as possible. I actually like that idea, so now we are trying to fix the tire of the one at the school.
We tried to pump the tire at the house and it didn't work. Then we tried again today and the valve just popped off! Now there is a hole the size of the valve in the tire. No wonder it didn't want to pump up. Anyway, I just sent it into town with someone and hopefully we can fix it. If it works, I'm thinking that should be the last problem, outside of the weather.
It rained again last night, so even had the tiller been working, we wouldn't have been able to use it. We have cabbages that need to be transplanted though so the two guys working with me were using the hoes to break up the soil better and removing all the weeds and roots to make good planting beds the old fashioned way. I raked a large area we cut before so the rotor tiller won't struggle so much and if we have to use the hoes, that will be easier too.
I am beginning to think maybe God is saying don't use the machines, or is trying to teach us a lesson. Machines are good, but they have their own problems. I hope the workers here will be able to respect the machines and use them when it is a lot better to use the machine, and not when it is just easier to use them.
I talked to the director about bringing both machines to the school today and he didn't think it was a good idea. It would be better if only one machine was there and the other stayed in storage. That way, it would force the workers to really take care of that one machine and really learn how to use it vs. till as much land as possible as quickly as possible. I actually like that idea, so now we are trying to fix the tire of the one at the school.
We tried to pump the tire at the house and it didn't work. Then we tried again today and the valve just popped off! Now there is a hole the size of the valve in the tire. No wonder it didn't want to pump up. Anyway, I just sent it into town with someone and hopefully we can fix it. If it works, I'm thinking that should be the last problem, outside of the weather.
It rained again last night, so even had the tiller been working, we wouldn't have been able to use it. We have cabbages that need to be transplanted though so the two guys working with me were using the hoes to break up the soil better and removing all the weeds and roots to make good planting beds the old fashioned way. I raked a large area we cut before so the rotor tiller won't struggle so much and if we have to use the hoes, that will be easier too.
I am beginning to think maybe God is saying don't use the machines, or is trying to teach us a lesson. Machines are good, but they have their own problems. I hope the workers here will be able to respect the machines and use them when it is a lot better to use the machine, and not when it is just easier to use them.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
I should have known...
I don't know what I was thinking when I thought that it would be a simple matter of taking the tiller to the field and giving it a go in the Congo soil. I should have known nothing goes according to plan in Congo...
At first, everything seemed to be working fine. I turned the machine on, and picking up the rear, engaged the wheels so it would propel itself forward. It only had a couple yards to go to the field, which it covered with ease, and then I put the back down to start tilling.
It was going forward and then it stopped - the tines stop pretty easily on this model. I let go of the throttle, putting it in neutral, and let the machine idle a bit as I checked out the back. Two things were "wrong." First, the depth was set really shallow so it was really just tilling the top root zone which would be the hardest part. I deepened the depth gauge hoping to till more soil and less roots with each pass, and maybe slow the tiller down. Alas, the wheels are locked to the tines, so you really can't slow the tiller down that much. The second problem was the hiller/furrower attachment that was bogging the machine down by being caught in the soil and the machine didn't have enough strength to pull it through. I could take care of that later though with a wrench. So I stood up to go again.
"What's that?" one of the students asked as he picked up a screw. "It's hot, I think it's from the machine." Oh great. Just what we ned, although not a problem. We have screw drivers and Allen wrenches, I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out. I look at it and my heart sank. Where the heck are we going to find a six-pronged star driver/wrench/thing in Congo?
The screw had come from part of the engine, and we knew it where it was supposed to go because there was another one still in the engine and a gaping hole on the other side of the part where the missing screw needed to go.
I was ready to call it a day and we took the tiller up to the Depot (the workshop) and talked to different people about what to do. We had just decided to send someone into town with the screw and either find a driver for it or come back with a screw exactly the same, but with a different head, when we started playing around with the tiller. We ended up getting it on with an Allen wrench (I left to look for something while we were working on getting the hiller/furrower part off and when I came back it was miraculously on, tight, and the Allen wrench was sitting next to it - I hope we don't have to get it off, because it probably won't come off with the stripped top). The hiller attachment bold was really, really difficult and I'm thinking it must have been knocked during transport and bent because it was loose in the hole, but the bold was extremely difficult to get off. We ended up breaking the bolt off, so that attachment came off too. Now the only thing is a slightly flat tire, but we wanted to give it a shot anyway - To the field!
We get it to the field and a small group gathers as we turn it on and start tilling. It goes into the soil marvellously, but didn't go anywhere. Oh yeah, I had to lock wheels into place. That done, we go!
The tiller went in and I thought it was going great, except the tines stopped moving. Whenever it gets the least bit difficult, the tines just stop, which is slightly disappointing because it would be good if the tines could keep working without the wheels going. Oh well. It skidded across the top. Then I reversed it and did it again. A little deeper, but still across the top. 4 passes later it looks pretty good, but there is only 3-4 inches of till depth and the weed stems (cut, but still there) and roots had also begun to wrap around the tines. And this was only in the part that was planted just last year without anything major growing in it.
So now we will have to use the big jembe (hoe) first and break the soil, remove as many weeds as is feasible, and then use the tillers. We'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it works. I would like to get the other tiller to UCBC tomorrow too so I will see if I can get David to take it. Tomorrow we start with the jembe, then try again with the tillers. Wish us luck!
At first, everything seemed to be working fine. I turned the machine on, and picking up the rear, engaged the wheels so it would propel itself forward. It only had a couple yards to go to the field, which it covered with ease, and then I put the back down to start tilling.
It was going forward and then it stopped - the tines stop pretty easily on this model. I let go of the throttle, putting it in neutral, and let the machine idle a bit as I checked out the back. Two things were "wrong." First, the depth was set really shallow so it was really just tilling the top root zone which would be the hardest part. I deepened the depth gauge hoping to till more soil and less roots with each pass, and maybe slow the tiller down. Alas, the wheels are locked to the tines, so you really can't slow the tiller down that much. The second problem was the hiller/furrower attachment that was bogging the machine down by being caught in the soil and the machine didn't have enough strength to pull it through. I could take care of that later though with a wrench. So I stood up to go again.
"What's that?" one of the students asked as he picked up a screw. "It's hot, I think it's from the machine." Oh great. Just what we ned, although not a problem. We have screw drivers and Allen wrenches, I'm sure we'll be able to figure something out. I look at it and my heart sank. Where the heck are we going to find a six-pronged star driver/wrench/thing in Congo?
The screw had come from part of the engine, and we knew it where it was supposed to go because there was another one still in the engine and a gaping hole on the other side of the part where the missing screw needed to go.
I was ready to call it a day and we took the tiller up to the Depot (the workshop) and talked to different people about what to do. We had just decided to send someone into town with the screw and either find a driver for it or come back with a screw exactly the same, but with a different head, when we started playing around with the tiller. We ended up getting it on with an Allen wrench (I left to look for something while we were working on getting the hiller/furrower part off and when I came back it was miraculously on, tight, and the Allen wrench was sitting next to it - I hope we don't have to get it off, because it probably won't come off with the stripped top). The hiller attachment bold was really, really difficult and I'm thinking it must have been knocked during transport and bent because it was loose in the hole, but the bold was extremely difficult to get off. We ended up breaking the bolt off, so that attachment came off too. Now the only thing is a slightly flat tire, but we wanted to give it a shot anyway - To the field!
We get it to the field and a small group gathers as we turn it on and start tilling. It goes into the soil marvellously, but didn't go anywhere. Oh yeah, I had to lock wheels into place. That done, we go!
The tiller went in and I thought it was going great, except the tines stopped moving. Whenever it gets the least bit difficult, the tines just stop, which is slightly disappointing because it would be good if the tines could keep working without the wheels going. Oh well. It skidded across the top. Then I reversed it and did it again. A little deeper, but still across the top. 4 passes later it looks pretty good, but there is only 3-4 inches of till depth and the weed stems (cut, but still there) and roots had also begun to wrap around the tines. And this was only in the part that was planted just last year without anything major growing in it.
So now we will have to use the big jembe (hoe) first and break the soil, remove as many weeds as is feasible, and then use the tillers. We'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it works. I would like to get the other tiller to UCBC tomorrow too so I will see if I can get David to take it. Tomorrow we start with the jembe, then try again with the tillers. Wish us luck!
Tillers
One of the two tillers arrived at UCBC this morning and is running well! We haven't tried it in the field yet (because it rained last night) but after I write this, that's where I'm going. They look like heavy duty machines, but it will be interesting to see how it handles the Congo soil and the weeds and grasses that were growing there.
Once we till the ground, we have cabbages that are ready to be transplanted, and then we have many other seeds we want to plant. The area to be cultivated is pretty big, but we're starting where we can. Whatever I can do while I'm here will be a good start and then they can continue the work (I hope).
Yesterday was an interesting day, but the story starts on Sunday. Sunday night Congo defeated Ghana to win an African soccer cup. It was the first time since 1974 and there was shouting in the streets as it happened. We woke up on Monday all ready to go to school and work only to find out President Kabila had declared it a holiday to celebrate the victory. When we finally did get to the school around 10:30, to do some internet, it turns out the two guys I'm working with were ready to work anyway. I should have taken a moto earlier, but I thought they wouldn't have been there. We just cut some more grasses and it was really too hot to do much. Today though I started early and got a couple hours of good, cool work in and cut a substantial amount of grass (from the muzungu perspective). I'm getting the hang of it more and more and when my blisters go away, I should be able to do even more. They don't really bother me, and I just work through them, but I still feel output will increase when they are gone.
Time to Till!
Time to test the tillers!
Once we till the ground, we have cabbages that are ready to be transplanted, and then we have many other seeds we want to plant. The area to be cultivated is pretty big, but we're starting where we can. Whatever I can do while I'm here will be a good start and then they can continue the work (I hope).
Yesterday was an interesting day, but the story starts on Sunday. Sunday night Congo defeated Ghana to win an African soccer cup. It was the first time since 1974 and there was shouting in the streets as it happened. We woke up on Monday all ready to go to school and work only to find out President Kabila had declared it a holiday to celebrate the victory. When we finally did get to the school around 10:30, to do some internet, it turns out the two guys I'm working with were ready to work anyway. I should have taken a moto earlier, but I thought they wouldn't have been there. We just cut some more grasses and it was really too hot to do much. Today though I started early and got a couple hours of good, cool work in and cut a substantial amount of grass (from the muzungu perspective). I'm getting the hang of it more and more and when my blisters go away, I should be able to do even more. They don't really bother me, and I just work through them, but I still feel output will increase when they are gone.
Time to Till!
Time to test the tillers!
Women's Day Parade
After a false Women's Day on Saturday, the real Women's Day was celebrated on Sunday, March 8. I guess the women were petitioning for a day other than Sunday because that is already a holiday, and in the end they got outvoted. I don't know who did the voting, or who made the decision, but everyone was supposed to go to church in the morning and then assemble at 10am at a church in the business district.
For any kind of gathering where many different groups will be represented, the people of Congo (or Goma and Beni at least because that is where I have been) like to dress in coordinated fabric. Every group picks out their own fabric and then have clothes made on their own, but from the same fabric. In that way, the women of Beni marched down the streets. Oh did they march. I don't know how long the distance was, but there were women who had been out there for 4 hours when the UCBC group finished, and an hour later, they were still marching. Thousands of women.
The muzungus of UCBC marched with some of the students and they got there a little late. We didn't know exactly when the marching was going to start so the students called when it was underway and then they got dressed and went to walk. The three muzungu guys then sat in the shade and watched the women of Beni march past. Each group had a banner in front, either of cloth or wood that said where they were from. There were school and church groups as well as company groups and organizations. Anyone who wanted to march I think just had to have a banner and a fabric picked out.
As they got to the end there was a covered pavilion, and sitting under it were all the important people of Beni. The mayor for instance was sitting on a couch in front. As the women would come by they would sing and dance and yell like they had not done before (even though the whole way before some had been singing and dancing in step as well). An MC would shout out the group of the women and everyone would cheer and shout. They even had a band to welcome them! It was pretty cool, except the women were still outside for 4+ hours start to finish!
One other cool thing about the march was the medics who were patrolling on the edges. Dressed in tan, they carried first aid kits and stretchers in case a need arose. Right before one group got to where we were sitting, a little girl fainted and they came running and quickly took her to the shade. It was good to see the medics there as that is something easily forgotten here in Congo.
For any kind of gathering where many different groups will be represented, the people of Congo (or Goma and Beni at least because that is where I have been) like to dress in coordinated fabric. Every group picks out their own fabric and then have clothes made on their own, but from the same fabric. In that way, the women of Beni marched down the streets. Oh did they march. I don't know how long the distance was, but there were women who had been out there for 4 hours when the UCBC group finished, and an hour later, they were still marching. Thousands of women.
The muzungus of UCBC marched with some of the students and they got there a little late. We didn't know exactly when the marching was going to start so the students called when it was underway and then they got dressed and went to walk. The three muzungu guys then sat in the shade and watched the women of Beni march past. Each group had a banner in front, either of cloth or wood that said where they were from. There were school and church groups as well as company groups and organizations. Anyone who wanted to march I think just had to have a banner and a fabric picked out.
As they got to the end there was a covered pavilion, and sitting under it were all the important people of Beni. The mayor for instance was sitting on a couch in front. As the women would come by they would sing and dance and yell like they had not done before (even though the whole way before some had been singing and dancing in step as well). An MC would shout out the group of the women and everyone would cheer and shout. They even had a band to welcome them! It was pretty cool, except the women were still outside for 4+ hours start to finish!
One other cool thing about the march was the medics who were patrolling on the edges. Dressed in tan, they carried first aid kits and stretchers in case a need arose. Right before one group got to where we were sitting, a little girl fainted and they came running and quickly took her to the shade. It was good to see the medics there as that is something easily forgotten here in Congo.
Friday, March 6, 2009
It started already
I started working in the shamba (field) today. It was sunny, hot, and my winterized body from Wisconsin was really not appreciating it. I have probably drank a litre and a half of water since leaving the house this morning and just keep drinking water and taking it easy. I'm done with work for the day though because it's just too hot now, and I'm probably already sunburned anyway. I was trying to limit my exposure, but really should have asked for some sun-screen as I forgot mine at home. It's hard to tell though because I was walking through some tall grass (6ft+) and the edges are kind of sharp, so I know I got some minor scrapes and I could just be feeling those. Only time will tell.
Because agriculture things take a while to get going, I started cutting some grass this morning and gathering it to make compost. I have two guy working with me, and it was going pretty good. Now we are clearing land that was a field last year so the ground is not too bad. Some of the grasses here form clumps and the roots are like tree stumps, so next week when we cultivate new land, it will be difficult. We are probably going to have to cultivate the land a little with hoes and then go back with the tiller.
When I was done working because I was radiating enough heat to boil the sweat pouring off my body, I left the two guys to finish the work. In classic Congolese fashion, they worked for about 5 minutes and then I haven't seen them out there since. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt though that it was just too hot and they will do it later. They actually might too because they are hard working guys with the university. Only time will tell...
Because agriculture things take a while to get going, I started cutting some grass this morning and gathering it to make compost. I have two guy working with me, and it was going pretty good. Now we are clearing land that was a field last year so the ground is not too bad. Some of the grasses here form clumps and the roots are like tree stumps, so next week when we cultivate new land, it will be difficult. We are probably going to have to cultivate the land a little with hoes and then go back with the tiller.
When I was done working because I was radiating enough heat to boil the sweat pouring off my body, I left the two guys to finish the work. In classic Congolese fashion, they worked for about 5 minutes and then I haven't seen them out there since. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt though that it was just too hot and they will do it later. They actually might too because they are hard working guys with the university. Only time will tell...
I'm hot
I arrived in Beni yesterday on a two propeller, 15 seat plane. It was a pretty good ride considering it was cloudy and overcast. A bit bumpy at the end, and visibility was poor, but I slept for about half the 50 minute ride. In classic Congo fashion, everyone on the plane applauded and clapped when we touched down. Let's just say there is a reason people pay a lot more to fly TMK than the other airlines in Congo.
My other travels were uneventful, except that God is awesome. The day before I left I met some people from church who work with a Rwandan organization with a guest house, so when I got to Kigali, they picked me up and I stayed there for the night. It's always good knowing someone is looking out for you. Goma was good too, although I was only there for a day. I saw a couple friends and there were two people at the guesthouse who come and go every year, and they are there now so it was cool to see them again. Everyone else there was new, and Joe and Lyn were gone, so it was different, but it was cool to be back. The flowers were beautiful and the lake was refreshing after two days of travelling.
The only other really interesting thing about my travels was the immigration official in the Goma airport who charged me $10 to write Beni on my VISA along with Goma. Apparently the officials at the boarder should have wrote it in, but I didn't know that, and apparently it's a new rule after the first of the year. I'm not sure how true that is though because I argued that last year I didn't need it and he never told me when the rule came into effect until after I told him I was there last year. Oh well. On the plus side, I understood everything he was telling me in Swahili, and even though I didn't like it, I still followed it all and was arguing for a long time. I actually wouldn't have given up except I heard them call my flight on the PA so paid him the money and got going.
Arriving at the Kasali's house was like coming home. The family there does such a good job of making you feel like family. Everyone was excited to see me, and whether I thought I accomplished a lot last time or not, everyone thanked me for my time before and thanked me for coming again. Everyone also asks about my fiance and where she is, and wonder when she is coming back to Congo too.
It is good to be back, and there is much to write about, but no time to write it. For now, it's 2:15 and lunch just arrived, so I'm off to eat.
My other travels were uneventful, except that God is awesome. The day before I left I met some people from church who work with a Rwandan organization with a guest house, so when I got to Kigali, they picked me up and I stayed there for the night. It's always good knowing someone is looking out for you. Goma was good too, although I was only there for a day. I saw a couple friends and there were two people at the guesthouse who come and go every year, and they are there now so it was cool to see them again. Everyone else there was new, and Joe and Lyn were gone, so it was different, but it was cool to be back. The flowers were beautiful and the lake was refreshing after two days of travelling.
The only other really interesting thing about my travels was the immigration official in the Goma airport who charged me $10 to write Beni on my VISA along with Goma. Apparently the officials at the boarder should have wrote it in, but I didn't know that, and apparently it's a new rule after the first of the year. I'm not sure how true that is though because I argued that last year I didn't need it and he never told me when the rule came into effect until after I told him I was there last year. Oh well. On the plus side, I understood everything he was telling me in Swahili, and even though I didn't like it, I still followed it all and was arguing for a long time. I actually wouldn't have given up except I heard them call my flight on the PA so paid him the money and got going.
Arriving at the Kasali's house was like coming home. The family there does such a good job of making you feel like family. Everyone was excited to see me, and whether I thought I accomplished a lot last time or not, everyone thanked me for my time before and thanked me for coming again. Everyone also asks about my fiance and where she is, and wonder when she is coming back to Congo too.
It is good to be back, and there is much to write about, but no time to write it. For now, it's 2:15 and lunch just arrived, so I'm off to eat.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Here we go again!
Hello again to the few (or many for all I know) who may read these random ramblings. I promise though they are all real and while random, actually happened (although maybe not in the order presented).
So it's been a while since the last posting, and to that, I apologize. My fiance came to visit in my last days in Congo and honestly, I lost all motivation to write while she was there, and didn't think about it when I was back. I've been thinking though I'll just keep writing this time about things even after I return.
Return from what? Well, Congo of course! I'm going back (tomorrow) to the University in Beni. It'll take like 4 days to get there, and I'll spend about 3 weeks there, and then a couple days in Goma and a week in Kenya and then I'll be back. All told, 5 weeks will have passed and I'm hoping to have seen God work in marvelous ways and that my relationship with him will be strengthened during that time.
So why the return trip? The last time I was in Beni, the leadership of UCBC (University Christian Bilingual of Congo) and I met to establish some agricultural goals for the many acres of land that are unused now. Not many (if any) of the things we discussed were acted upon since I left for many reasons. Also, two tillers arrived in a shipping container since I left (that dad and I ironically loaded before I left for Congo the first time!). This time will be a great time to see friends and hopefully learn a lot more about Congo. I do not know what God is calling my fiance and I to do in the future, but if He wants us to work overseas somewhere (maybe in Congo) we want to be ready. Learning as much as possible about international work is part of preparing for that.
I don't know how often I will be able to update the blog while in Congo but I'll do my best, and will for sure post more after my trip as well. Also, feel free to contact me with any comments or questions either on the comments on the blog, or at jdparsons86@gmail.com.
In other news, God is working in other ways besides international travel as I have just received a position at UW-Madison in the Plant breeding and Plant Genetics program starting this fall. I will be working with a professor on Carrots and don't know a lot about the specifics of my project, but know God is working! Madison is the best university for plant breeding and many people apply for only a few positions every year. Thank God for this incredible blessing!
So it's been a while since the last posting, and to that, I apologize. My fiance came to visit in my last days in Congo and honestly, I lost all motivation to write while she was there, and didn't think about it when I was back. I've been thinking though I'll just keep writing this time about things even after I return.
Return from what? Well, Congo of course! I'm going back (tomorrow) to the University in Beni. It'll take like 4 days to get there, and I'll spend about 3 weeks there, and then a couple days in Goma and a week in Kenya and then I'll be back. All told, 5 weeks will have passed and I'm hoping to have seen God work in marvelous ways and that my relationship with him will be strengthened during that time.
So why the return trip? The last time I was in Beni, the leadership of UCBC (University Christian Bilingual of Congo) and I met to establish some agricultural goals for the many acres of land that are unused now. Not many (if any) of the things we discussed were acted upon since I left for many reasons. Also, two tillers arrived in a shipping container since I left (that dad and I ironically loaded before I left for Congo the first time!). This time will be a great time to see friends and hopefully learn a lot more about Congo. I do not know what God is calling my fiance and I to do in the future, but if He wants us to work overseas somewhere (maybe in Congo) we want to be ready. Learning as much as possible about international work is part of preparing for that.
I don't know how often I will be able to update the blog while in Congo but I'll do my best, and will for sure post more after my trip as well. Also, feel free to contact me with any comments or questions either on the comments on the blog, or at jdparsons86@gmail.com.
In other news, God is working in other ways besides international travel as I have just received a position at UW-Madison in the Plant breeding and Plant Genetics program starting this fall. I will be working with a professor on Carrots and don't know a lot about the specifics of my project, but know God is working! Madison is the best university for plant breeding and many people apply for only a few positions every year. Thank God for this incredible blessing!
Monday, April 28, 2008
UCBC - Round 2
Avid readers might have noticed a post a couple days ago where I pretty much vented lots of frustrations without giving the rest of the story and trying to explain things better. I apologize for this super-biased post and have deleted it and will re-insert parts of it into the coming posts hopefully explaining a bit more of the situation. There were many reasons for my frustration, but not a lot of background to the situation. Now I'm going to write about things the university and the students are trying to do, maybe highlight a student's story or two (with permission), and show what the students are giving up to come to the University. It'll probably take a couple posts, and I hope you enjoy the awesome things that are going on at the University more than my frustrations. I think the main reason I was so frustrated was because good education is something that I care dearly about. It's something I value incredibly and I feel God is calling me to education in some capacity in the future. I have lots of ideas about education and have studied education a litle, and where UCBC wants to go is awesome and I get excited just thinking about it.
First we'll talk a little bit about the educational background of many of the students, and for this I'm going to talk in general about the background of the history of Congo, and things I've learned in Goma as well. The first thing that comes to my mind when thinking of the education system of the Congo is a lack of government support. The government is unable to provide finances to schools and organization across the whole country is extremely difficult because of the large, untamed country. It is impossibly to travel by car from Goma to the capital for instance. You must fly because the land in between has no connecting roads. There is very little coordination and support from the government.
This means the schools that are supposed to be free for students charge fees on the side. Besides that, corruption and greed at every level mean people at the schools get varying amounts of money. One way many teachers make up for their lack of money from the government and the system is to charge students for grades. Maybe not implicitly stated, but implied is the fact that grades are often bought and not earned here in Congo. If you are on the wrong side of a teacher, and can't pay, you might be as smart as Albert Einstein and fail every year. The other, horrible thing is that for women, the accepted payment for grades is often sex. If a student is unwilling to offer her body to a teacher, they might not make it to the next year. I don't know if there are any studies about that, but I have heard many people state these things as fact, Congolese as well as aid workers. That was also one of the things UCBC stood on saying payments of money or sex will not be accepted for grades and standing in the schol. Because of this and a very poor standard of education in general, most of the students have not been to a school with academic integrity standards and is something UCBC is totally trying to change.
The other thing that has heavily influenced, no, dominated most of the student's lives, is the war. For years Eastern Congo (and much of the whole region) has been in active conflict. Many of the students have fled from villages and small towns to larger towns, other countries, or remotely into the bush, hiding from the fighting and the ravages of war. Many of the students have been moving from place to place for a long time. When the fighting first broke out years ago, most of the students were living in this area where the fighting was bad. One student's father was captured and killed and they never found his body. Another student hid in a ceiling for a week when the rebels came to his town and then escaped. These students have had fractured education for their whole lives, insecurity their whole lives, and many are just now beginning to have something that is fairly stable that represents some sort of security as peace slowly comes to Congo.
Finally, I want to say how much the students have given up to come to UCBC, and how much they care about being there (as evident by how much they have given up). Some of the students are living with extended family members because they come from areas outside of Beni. These students live with them, not seeing their families very often, and often have to do many housekeeping chores on top of their school work. Besides that, most of the students walk 1-2 hours, BOTH WAYS. Some students walk a total of 4 hours a day just to get to school and back. If I walked two hours to school, went to school for 6-8 hours, and then walk two hours home, then had to get water for the house, cook, clean, etc... I wouldn't want to (or probably would not be able to) study at all. Especially when you consider there is no electricity in most of Beni and by the time they sit down to do homework, maybe it's 10 or 11pm and they have to leave at 6am, probably after doing some more chores of some kind in the morning.
The school fees is something that is being worked on. To be self-sustaining in any way, and really to be practical at all, there has to be some sort of school fees for the operational expenses of the university. However, UCBC does not want the school fees to be the limiting factor in student's attendance. They don't want it to be a school for the economic elite, they want it to be a school that creates leaders of integrity, values, and sound education irregardless of economic status. To help this they are trying to work out a scholarship program somehow, but it's still in the early planning stages. Back to the students though...
A very few students were able to pay the student fees right away. It has been a tremendous help to have the 250 dollar fee per student per year from those who have paid it going to operational expenses - staff salary, gas for the generator, etc... Let's throw this $250 into perspective. The average worker for a labor position makes between 30 and 50 dollars a month. There are positions that offer more, and some people have them, but any labor position without a lot of skill and experience is usually between 30-50 dollars. That's 5 - 8 months wages with no other expenses just to pay for school. And there are other expenses. People pay for housing, clothing, food, siblings' school fees, etc... and this is often for a family of many people. 6-8 person families are often the norm (and sometimes on the small side). Many families have other relatives staying at the house as well to be cared for. Some of the students could afford to pay some, but not all of the school fees because of these limitations. Some have not been able to pay any, and UCBC has accepted them with open arms.
Finally, things like going to college are not just a single family affair here in Congo (and many places of the world). As an example, a student went to Butembo yesterday to ask his cousin for school fees. The extended family is often asked to help support students with opportunities, and thus provide for the student as well as add to the number of people that are interested in seeing the student succeed - if you fail class, maybe they won't continue to support you. Often the whole extended family knows what is going on and looks to that student to succeed for many reasons. In a diploma, a family sees future security, and they will suffer, give, and support a student who might be able to help them in the future. That in turn puts pressure on the student to succeed and do well. Often the student that gets money for a family is the only one in the family (at that time) because the financial burden is too much to send multiple students to school at once.
There is finally another category of students. These are older students who are coming back to school. There are not very many of them, but they are incredible people to talk to and learn from. They remember Congo before the war and have seen a peaceful Congo. Most of these students are men, and one guy especially has an awesome story. He worked really, really hard to put his wife through nursing school before, and now she is a successful nurse. Now, she is helping support him as he is going to school, but these older students are surviving on only one income, with children to take care of and pay school fees for. How are they supposed to do that? The before mentioned student can afford to live on his wife's income by giving up many things, but he cannot pay his school fees on top of that.
Many of the students at UCBC have given up incredible amounts of things to go to school - time, money, resources, jobs, etc... They want to be here. They are working hard to be here. Given the background of many of the students, it's incredible that they are even at the school, trying to succeed in academics when they look at a country that is just crying out from past wrongs. The students heard about UCBC. They heard about the goals of the university, not to provide a Congo standard of education, but to provide a higher standard. A university that not only teaches students academics, but helps them glorify God with their actions and integrity as future leaders of their fields, communities, cities, provinces, and all of Congo. The vision for UCBC is huge, awesome, and daunting - although not impossible. Not only is it not impossible, the foundation is being laid in a way that not only helps success from a human standpoint, but with prayer and listening to God, steps are taken that UCBC is in complete line with God's will. I can think of no better place to be than in line with the will of God.
First we'll talk a little bit about the educational background of many of the students, and for this I'm going to talk in general about the background of the history of Congo, and things I've learned in Goma as well. The first thing that comes to my mind when thinking of the education system of the Congo is a lack of government support. The government is unable to provide finances to schools and organization across the whole country is extremely difficult because of the large, untamed country. It is impossibly to travel by car from Goma to the capital for instance. You must fly because the land in between has no connecting roads. There is very little coordination and support from the government.
This means the schools that are supposed to be free for students charge fees on the side. Besides that, corruption and greed at every level mean people at the schools get varying amounts of money. One way many teachers make up for their lack of money from the government and the system is to charge students for grades. Maybe not implicitly stated, but implied is the fact that grades are often bought and not earned here in Congo. If you are on the wrong side of a teacher, and can't pay, you might be as smart as Albert Einstein and fail every year. The other, horrible thing is that for women, the accepted payment for grades is often sex. If a student is unwilling to offer her body to a teacher, they might not make it to the next year. I don't know if there are any studies about that, but I have heard many people state these things as fact, Congolese as well as aid workers. That was also one of the things UCBC stood on saying payments of money or sex will not be accepted for grades and standing in the schol. Because of this and a very poor standard of education in general, most of the students have not been to a school with academic integrity standards and is something UCBC is totally trying to change.
The other thing that has heavily influenced, no, dominated most of the student's lives, is the war. For years Eastern Congo (and much of the whole region) has been in active conflict. Many of the students have fled from villages and small towns to larger towns, other countries, or remotely into the bush, hiding from the fighting and the ravages of war. Many of the students have been moving from place to place for a long time. When the fighting first broke out years ago, most of the students were living in this area where the fighting was bad. One student's father was captured and killed and they never found his body. Another student hid in a ceiling for a week when the rebels came to his town and then escaped. These students have had fractured education for their whole lives, insecurity their whole lives, and many are just now beginning to have something that is fairly stable that represents some sort of security as peace slowly comes to Congo.
Finally, I want to say how much the students have given up to come to UCBC, and how much they care about being there (as evident by how much they have given up). Some of the students are living with extended family members because they come from areas outside of Beni. These students live with them, not seeing their families very often, and often have to do many housekeeping chores on top of their school work. Besides that, most of the students walk 1-2 hours, BOTH WAYS. Some students walk a total of 4 hours a day just to get to school and back. If I walked two hours to school, went to school for 6-8 hours, and then walk two hours home, then had to get water for the house, cook, clean, etc... I wouldn't want to (or probably would not be able to) study at all. Especially when you consider there is no electricity in most of Beni and by the time they sit down to do homework, maybe it's 10 or 11pm and they have to leave at 6am, probably after doing some more chores of some kind in the morning.
The school fees is something that is being worked on. To be self-sustaining in any way, and really to be practical at all, there has to be some sort of school fees for the operational expenses of the university. However, UCBC does not want the school fees to be the limiting factor in student's attendance. They don't want it to be a school for the economic elite, they want it to be a school that creates leaders of integrity, values, and sound education irregardless of economic status. To help this they are trying to work out a scholarship program somehow, but it's still in the early planning stages. Back to the students though...
A very few students were able to pay the student fees right away. It has been a tremendous help to have the 250 dollar fee per student per year from those who have paid it going to operational expenses - staff salary, gas for the generator, etc... Let's throw this $250 into perspective. The average worker for a labor position makes between 30 and 50 dollars a month. There are positions that offer more, and some people have them, but any labor position without a lot of skill and experience is usually between 30-50 dollars. That's 5 - 8 months wages with no other expenses just to pay for school. And there are other expenses. People pay for housing, clothing, food, siblings' school fees, etc... and this is often for a family of many people. 6-8 person families are often the norm (and sometimes on the small side). Many families have other relatives staying at the house as well to be cared for. Some of the students could afford to pay some, but not all of the school fees because of these limitations. Some have not been able to pay any, and UCBC has accepted them with open arms.
Finally, things like going to college are not just a single family affair here in Congo (and many places of the world). As an example, a student went to Butembo yesterday to ask his cousin for school fees. The extended family is often asked to help support students with opportunities, and thus provide for the student as well as add to the number of people that are interested in seeing the student succeed - if you fail class, maybe they won't continue to support you. Often the whole extended family knows what is going on and looks to that student to succeed for many reasons. In a diploma, a family sees future security, and they will suffer, give, and support a student who might be able to help them in the future. That in turn puts pressure on the student to succeed and do well. Often the student that gets money for a family is the only one in the family (at that time) because the financial burden is too much to send multiple students to school at once.
There is finally another category of students. These are older students who are coming back to school. There are not very many of them, but they are incredible people to talk to and learn from. They remember Congo before the war and have seen a peaceful Congo. Most of these students are men, and one guy especially has an awesome story. He worked really, really hard to put his wife through nursing school before, and now she is a successful nurse. Now, she is helping support him as he is going to school, but these older students are surviving on only one income, with children to take care of and pay school fees for. How are they supposed to do that? The before mentioned student can afford to live on his wife's income by giving up many things, but he cannot pay his school fees on top of that.
Many of the students at UCBC have given up incredible amounts of things to go to school - time, money, resources, jobs, etc... They want to be here. They are working hard to be here. Given the background of many of the students, it's incredible that they are even at the school, trying to succeed in academics when they look at a country that is just crying out from past wrongs. The students heard about UCBC. They heard about the goals of the university, not to provide a Congo standard of education, but to provide a higher standard. A university that not only teaches students academics, but helps them glorify God with their actions and integrity as future leaders of their fields, communities, cities, provinces, and all of Congo. The vision for UCBC is huge, awesome, and daunting - although not impossible. Not only is it not impossible, the foundation is being laid in a way that not only helps success from a human standpoint, but with prayer and listening to God, steps are taken that UCBC is in complete line with God's will. I can think of no better place to be than in line with the will of God.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Two things
Today was an awesome day. UCBC had a basketball match against the UN
Indian Battalion and we won! The Indian team we were playing was not
very good because many of them were just learning how to play (but then
again, so were many of our guys) but more importantly, our team had an
awesome first half where things were going right and the guys were able
to see (and be a part of) a good team. The passing was good, defense
was awesome, and in the second quarter it seemed like every shot went
in. It was great.
Indian Battalion and we won! The Indian team we were playing was not
very good because many of them were just learning how to play (but then
again, so were many of our guys) but more importantly, our team had an
awesome first half where things were going right and the guys were able
to see (and be a part of) a good team. The passing was good, defense
was awesome, and in the second quarter it seemed like every shot went
in. It was great.
I was playing below the basket and commanded the paint. I imagine I
looked kind of funny at times with my arms in the air running around,
knees bent slightly to respond better. It was a blast though. I also
blocked some shots, intercepted some passes, and scored 10 of our 32
points or so (something like 32) including 2 three point shots. It was
great because the students were really excited and while it was a low
scoring game (the second half seemed to have every shot miss) the
defense was pretty good for UCBC which is an improvement over what I've
seen before. At the end the Indian Battalion invited all the students
for tea and some crackers and snacks. It was really cool. As another
bonus, I was also invited to come and play with them in the evening some
day as they play every day at 6:30, so I might have to take them up on
that and if I'm lucky (maybe I'm pushing my luck here!) get invited to
have some awesome Indian food!
The second thing is even more exciting than the basketball (well to me
anyways, and I'm pretty sure most people will agree). I have a return
flight now. I am coming back with Megan on June 6 in time for Sarah's
graduation on the 7th. What?! Yeah, that's right. I said June 6, as
in less than two months away. Actually, like a month and a half. I
just realized that now. That's pretty sweet. Why the early return when
I was originally planning on being here until December?
Originally I was thinking December, but my departure was already moved up to at least September because of applying to grad school (as many people know). Why then did it get pushed forward again to June?
A number of reasons really. First off is things aren't going incredibly
well in Goma. There is still fighting in the surrounding area so I
can't work in community development (one of the things I was really
looking forward to working with HEAL Africa because they do lots of work
in the village communities) and Mawe Hai isn't doing all that much
either because of the fighting as well. It's supposed to be a teaching
place and no one wants to come and learn about agriculture if they can't
do it at home because an army will just come and destroy/steal whatever
they do. War sucks. Besides that, I've had a couple ideas and they just
haven't taken hold. It seems the people working at Mawe Hai are very
happy with their (in my opinion) fairly easy jobs and don't want to do
anything more than they already are. Who would want to do more for the
same money? They are not going to become rich, but for the field work
they do, 55 dollars a month is a pretty darn good wage that many other
people would love to have.
That said, another possibility was to work in Beni for the rest of my
time at UCBC, but I don't really feel that that is a great option
either. I think Beni is a place I could come back to, but I really just
feel my time here in Congo is done. It's time to do something else.
What that something else is I'm not entirely sure because it's looking
like my chances to get into grad school are less and less as the days
pass, but I'm excited to see what God has planed for me.
Of course, there is also the missing my girlfriend and family and things
in Wisconsin, but I firmly believe that if things were going better and
there was more purpose in my time here that it would not be a big deal
at all. As it is, I'm super excited to go home in June and live with my
brother and one of my best friends for a summer (at least) and possibly
longer (depending on school).
That said, if you know of any job openings for something you think I
might be good at, let me know via jdparsons86@gmail.com Otherwise, I'll
be chilling in Milwaukee this summer so you'll have to drop me a line
and hang out sometime anyways because I'm pretty sure the Parsons'
Fortress is the sweetest compound (yes, anyone who has seen the
retaining walls we built in our front yards would agree it's a compound)
in all of south eastern Wisconsin. See you soon (if you're reading this
from Wisconsin)!
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
The Evil Muzungu
Well, I arrived safe in Beni on Sunday and will be here for a month
working with the UCBC university. I'm helping the university start some
agriculture projects on their 90 acres of land. They have a work
program with lots of labor from the students and agriculture projects
seem like a good idea to the board and I agree. I'm not going to be
doing lots of teaching or anything too cool, I'm just trying to set up
some basic agricultural guidelines for UCBC to follow in the years to
come as the university gets larger, expands programs, and teaches
Congolese students how to be leaders with morals and integrity. I
firmly believe in what UCBC is doing and am happy to be here supporting
them and their goals.
working with the UCBC university. I'm helping the university start some
agriculture projects on their 90 acres of land. They have a work
program with lots of labor from the students and agriculture projects
seem like a good idea to the board and I agree. I'm not going to be
doing lots of teaching or anything too cool, I'm just trying to set up
some basic agricultural guidelines for UCBC to follow in the years to
come as the university gets larger, expands programs, and teaches
Congolese students how to be leaders with morals and integrity. I
firmly believe in what UCBC is doing and am happy to be here supporting
them and their goals.
Yesterday I walked around some of the land where we want to start the
projects. Because there is so much land and UCBC has not used much of
it yet, they have let community members farm the land, for free, with
the understanding that when UCBC wants the land, their squatter fields
are forfeit. We have the support of the law (it's our land and we have
the title) and the chief and mayor of Beni, as well as many community
members who see UCBC as an awesome opportunity for Congo development.
Unfortunately though, the squatters have put in tremendous amounts of
time and labor working these fields and I'm pretty sure we do not have
their support as we will call the land into use for UCBC both in
agriculture projects and building projects in the future. They have
used much of the land already and so yesterday I walked around with
Kutembo to look for places that had not been cultivated yet to tread on
as few toes as possible. Or at least that's what I thought we were
doing.
After arriving at UCBC I talked to Kutembo and he said he would come and
find me when he was ready and able ot head into the field to look. I
thought that was a good plan and so got to work planning some other
things. He came and found me and we headed out.
I know I explained that I wanted to see the land on this side of the
spring and I wanted especially to see the land that no one is using
right now (this was on Tuesday). He said okay and lead the way off,
making a bee line to the first squatting farmers we could see. He
approaches them happily saying how are you and how is the work. They
reply happily that it is good. It's still early enough in the morning
that they did not tell the Muzungu that they were hungry. Maybe they
should have because Kutembo then started talking again. I didn't fully
understand everything that he said but I heard enough. He basically
told them that on Thursday UCBC would need all the land. They responded
and he said again, all the land, implying their fields that they were
working in at the time!
And here is the white guy, three paces behind him, cowering in his wake,
trying to take up as little space as possible in the hopes that they
don't see me. I really don't want to be on this trip anymore. Why does
it have to be with the Muzungu that he goes and takes away their land?
Well, maybe he just misunderstood me, so as we leave those workers
looking a bit confused and dejected, I explain again that I want to see
the land that no one is using. Okay he says and we walk on.
Must not have got the message because we did it again too. I tried one
more time to shrink away into nothingness as these people have enjoyed
these fields, until this Muzungu came and took them from us (at least
that's how I imagine they felt - I could be completely wrong, but the
first time a Muzungu walks the land, their fields are forfeit). I tried
one more time to explain to Kutembo my intentions of looking for unused
land and he finally said that there really wasn't any, except for very
small pieces here and there. By this time I was pretty distressed, not
wanting to cause problems and was done with the trip, but we continued
and gave a couple more farmers a hard time. Finally as we were walking
back to the building where they keep classes there was a sizable piece
of land. It looked like it had for sure been planted at one time,
possibly harvested and planted again, but it was overgrown enough that I
was comfortable saying we could use that land. The cassava growing
there was irregularly spaced and it looked like no one was using it. It
was also pretty close to the building so that's good too for security
purposes. On Thursday, the students will begin to clear and cultivate
that land. We will hopefully plant next week Tuesday or Thursday. I'm
not sure what we will plant, but I"m happy that we found a piece of land
we can use without kicking people off right away.
As it is, as people finish harvesting their fields now they will be
reminded that when they started they were told they would lose their
fields eventually and the time is here. UCBC will expand it's
agriculture program, a soccer field, and building projects in the next
months and years. On the one hand I know it's UCBC property and it's
awesome that they let the farmers use it, for free, but I still feel
like a jerk going around taking the land back from them.
As a side note, the official UCBC policy on this is the fields will be
forfeit after a harvest or the farmers will be compensated for their
expected harvest. We are not an evil empire who just takes people's
fields and hard work right before it's harvested.
Friday, April 11, 2008
The roads are (were) fixed!
There has been major road work in Goma. They have a huge grader, a front end loader, and a steam roller. They truck in gravel and pour it on the roads, level it with the grader and flatten it tight with the roller. Some places they are even attacking the lava that is sticking up with hammers and metal rods. They have made tremendous progress and...
Now it's all gone. For the last week we haven't had any rain and the roads have been great. Yesterday we had a pretty good storm, lots of water, and it came fast, and the roads are already trashed. Granted the roads are still a lot better than they were, but every time it rains, they get just as bad as they were before. These large scale efforts are encouraging to see and applaudable in their ambitions, but it's hard to see what the point is. In my mind, there are really only three reasonable options.
The first option is to build new, paved roads. By not wasting resources on week (sometime hour) long fixes until the next rain, save that money and invest in GOOD road building. Use good materials and you won't have to fix it as much. Pave the road and it will last.
The second option would be to do very small scale fixes. I think every residency and business should be responsible for fixing the road in front of their house. Once a week the government could dump trucks of gravel at strategic, periodic places along the road. Then the residents are responsible for carrying a bucket of gravel to the holes in front of their property, putting the gravel in the pot holes, and tamping it down with a stick. The city has a clean-up day where everyone burns all the garbage around the streets so why can't they also have a road fix-it day? The government could even forgo the large scale, doomed projects they are doing now and fund people to go around with wheel barrels and shovels patching up the roads. This small scale would probably have to be weekly, but the money saved from the large scale projects would probably be enough and would be a longer term fix.
The final option is to do nothing. I think it's pointless to spend all this money on fixes that are good for maybe a week, and back to a previous state of car-destroying, inverted mogul hills in less than a month. The large scale efforts to provide dirt roads just don't seem to make sense to me.
Now it's all gone. For the last week we haven't had any rain and the roads have been great. Yesterday we had a pretty good storm, lots of water, and it came fast, and the roads are already trashed. Granted the roads are still a lot better than they were, but every time it rains, they get just as bad as they were before. These large scale efforts are encouraging to see and applaudable in their ambitions, but it's hard to see what the point is. In my mind, there are really only three reasonable options.
The first option is to build new, paved roads. By not wasting resources on week (sometime hour) long fixes until the next rain, save that money and invest in GOOD road building. Use good materials and you won't have to fix it as much. Pave the road and it will last.
The second option would be to do very small scale fixes. I think every residency and business should be responsible for fixing the road in front of their house. Once a week the government could dump trucks of gravel at strategic, periodic places along the road. Then the residents are responsible for carrying a bucket of gravel to the holes in front of their property, putting the gravel in the pot holes, and tamping it down with a stick. The city has a clean-up day where everyone burns all the garbage around the streets so why can't they also have a road fix-it day? The government could even forgo the large scale, doomed projects they are doing now and fund people to go around with wheel barrels and shovels patching up the roads. This small scale would probably have to be weekly, but the money saved from the large scale projects would probably be enough and would be a longer term fix.
The final option is to do nothing. I think it's pointless to spend all this money on fixes that are good for maybe a week, and back to a previous state of car-destroying, inverted mogul hills in less than a month. The large scale efforts to provide dirt roads just don't seem to make sense to me.
The way things are supposed to work
Here in Congo, rape is unfortunately an every day occurrence. Here in Eastern Congo, HEAL Africa is fortunately there to help when it does occur.
A couple days ago a perfect example of how HEAL Africa helps came up. A woman in a village was raped and she was identified by members of the Nehemiah Committee in her village. The Nehemiah Committees are composed of community leaders from all faith and leadership positions in villages and they work together in community development. The Nehemiah members were able to get the woman in contact with a councilor in the village who is supported and trained by HEAL Africa. Through the councilor she received immediate emergency first aid treatment and they went and contacted a partner organization that works closely with HEAL Africa. The partner organization was able to arrange transport for the woman to come to Goma where she was received with open arms by another councilor who knew she was arriving. She was then able to receive further medical treatment and help in Goma.
In Africa things often go wrong, and sometimes it's really encouraging when things work just like they are supposed to.
A couple days ago a perfect example of how HEAL Africa helps came up. A woman in a village was raped and she was identified by members of the Nehemiah Committee in her village. The Nehemiah Committees are composed of community leaders from all faith and leadership positions in villages and they work together in community development. The Nehemiah members were able to get the woman in contact with a councilor in the village who is supported and trained by HEAL Africa. Through the councilor she received immediate emergency first aid treatment and they went and contacted a partner organization that works closely with HEAL Africa. The partner organization was able to arrange transport for the woman to come to Goma where she was received with open arms by another councilor who knew she was arriving. She was then able to receive further medical treatment and help in Goma.
In Africa things often go wrong, and sometimes it's really encouraging when things work just like they are supposed to.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Picinic at the beach
Some things in this world were righted today after way too many wrongs. I tossed a Frisbee for instance. Ah, the glorious white disc. Revolving swiftly, hurtling through the air, slicing one might even say. The back hand, the fore hand, behind the back, under the leg, risers, curvers, off balanced tosses, and some that did not resemble normal throws at all. The only two keys to tossing a disc are to keep the Frisbee as flat as possible (except for special applications) and to give it some rotation. If you keep these two things in mind you can toss a Frisbee with one finger, in all sorts of weird ways, and even when shackled upside down by your ankles (in the last case, throwing a Frisbee well would probably be the least of my worries though - one might wonder what the heck he was doing upside down in the first place, as well as why he were shackled).
This slight ode leaves out one of the special application throws though, where you not only are not trying to keep the Frisbee flat, but are throwing it, in fact, upside down. The Tomahawk throw, in all it's glory, has a special place in the world of circular flying objects. Thrown upside down, it's flight is different than a normal throw, a bit more unpredictable, but valid. Today, since I didn't have to throw over anybodies head, I used the Tomahawk throw to toss the disc up the 20 foot drop off we were playing next to. Normally thrown, a Frisbee at that angle will rise to substantial height, see it's prey, which is in fact the person who threw it, and will hone in at greater velocities than most people appreciate while climbing up a large pile of rocks. The Tomahawk overcomes this particular, potentially painful, obstacle because of it's different flight. I was happy to re-make it's acquaintance today.
I haven't even mentioned the various methods for catching yet. The pancake will always have it's place as the fail safe, but it lacks flair for sure. The one handed grab, especially via an outstreached hand, is a good step. The dive (defined by the body leaving the ground, acquiring the Frisbee, and only after that particular obstacle has been overcome, crashing to the ground via a body part other than the feet - finally, a dive is only valid if upon standing up one realizes he cannot because of a hurt limb (preferably a break over a sprain) or has drawn blood that is dripping from the body (mere scrapes do not count)) was unfortunately not implemented today. While I'm all about natural injuries, diving with jagged lava rocks everywhere did not seem appealing. I mean it could have been very substantial injuries had I dove, more resembling a bid for suicide than a glamorous catch. The glamor did not stop though with one handed catches. I ran through thick grass, jumped, and even caught the only one I tried to behind my back. I was waiting with baited breath for an opportunity to propel myself into the air, perform a half turn, and snatch the Frisbee out of the air between my legs, but unfortunately the opportunity never arose. I had to settle with juggling the disc with my feet before apprehending it in my hand.
Today 6 people from Maji, two from the hospital, a wife, a sister in law, and two kids and a driver went to Mawe Hai for a picnic. After a short tour we headed down to the lake to eat and drink and be merry. A half hour and lots of food later, I brought out my disc. The guys weren't too bad considering it was their first time to play ever. We were just standing in a circle tossing it around and the best part was after 15 minutes of playing Frisbee when Bizi (after missing one) goes "it was the wind!" How he already knew the best excuse to the unprofessional discer I have no clue, but that was the phrase of the day. I think I'm going to bring it back tomorrow too. Anything that happens is being blamed on the wind. Sounds like a good excuse to me!
This slight ode leaves out one of the special application throws though, where you not only are not trying to keep the Frisbee flat, but are throwing it, in fact, upside down. The Tomahawk throw, in all it's glory, has a special place in the world of circular flying objects. Thrown upside down, it's flight is different than a normal throw, a bit more unpredictable, but valid. Today, since I didn't have to throw over anybodies head, I used the Tomahawk throw to toss the disc up the 20 foot drop off we were playing next to. Normally thrown, a Frisbee at that angle will rise to substantial height, see it's prey, which is in fact the person who threw it, and will hone in at greater velocities than most people appreciate while climbing up a large pile of rocks. The Tomahawk overcomes this particular, potentially painful, obstacle because of it's different flight. I was happy to re-make it's acquaintance today.
I haven't even mentioned the various methods for catching yet. The pancake will always have it's place as the fail safe, but it lacks flair for sure. The one handed grab, especially via an outstreached hand, is a good step. The dive (defined by the body leaving the ground, acquiring the Frisbee, and only after that particular obstacle has been overcome, crashing to the ground via a body part other than the feet - finally, a dive is only valid if upon standing up one realizes he cannot because of a hurt limb (preferably a break over a sprain) or has drawn blood that is dripping from the body (mere scrapes do not count)) was unfortunately not implemented today. While I'm all about natural injuries, diving with jagged lava rocks everywhere did not seem appealing. I mean it could have been very substantial injuries had I dove, more resembling a bid for suicide than a glamorous catch. The glamor did not stop though with one handed catches. I ran through thick grass, jumped, and even caught the only one I tried to behind my back. I was waiting with baited breath for an opportunity to propel myself into the air, perform a half turn, and snatch the Frisbee out of the air between my legs, but unfortunately the opportunity never arose. I had to settle with juggling the disc with my feet before apprehending it in my hand.
Today 6 people from Maji, two from the hospital, a wife, a sister in law, and two kids and a driver went to Mawe Hai for a picnic. After a short tour we headed down to the lake to eat and drink and be merry. A half hour and lots of food later, I brought out my disc. The guys weren't too bad considering it was their first time to play ever. We were just standing in a circle tossing it around and the best part was after 15 minutes of playing Frisbee when Bizi (after missing one) goes "it was the wind!" How he already knew the best excuse to the unprofessional discer I have no clue, but that was the phrase of the day. I think I'm going to bring it back tomorrow too. Anything that happens is being blamed on the wind. Sounds like a good excuse to me!
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Standing Water
This saga begins last night. It had been sort of a rough day. Lots of
waiting, frustrations, and a sense that nothing had been accomplished in
the 11 hours I had thus far been awake. Feeling rather grimy, sweaty,
and in general ready for a shower, I hopped in. Now in the states, when
I'm at home, I'm all about quick showers. You just waste so much time
in the shower. Here, I'm all about wasting as much time in teh shower
as is possible. I massage the shampoo into my hair, take a long time
soaping up, scrubbing everything judiciously (including my back) and in
general, sitting in a hot tub while standing up.
waiting, frustrations, and a sense that nothing had been accomplished in
the 11 hours I had thus far been awake. Feeling rather grimy, sweaty,
and in general ready for a shower, I hopped in. Now in the states, when
I'm at home, I'm all about quick showers. You just waste so much time
in the shower. Here, I'm all about wasting as much time in teh shower
as is possible. I massage the shampoo into my hair, take a long time
soaping up, scrubbing everything judiciously (including my back) and in
general, sitting in a hot tub while standing up.
Finally deciding I was late enough for dinner as it was, I turned off
both the hot and cold taps. The only problem was after I turned off the
hot water tap, I was holding it in my hand. That's right. The nob that
shuts off the hot water had broken off and was in my hand. It took me a
second to realize what that meant, and then I observed the water
streaming from the hole where the tap should be as well as streaming out
of the shower head. It seemed the water could not escape sufficiently
fast enough just through the tap and the shower wanted to douse me with
scalding water too. I'm all about hot showers (if the water is
available - otherwise, I'll do a cold one no problem); however, this one
was out to get me.
I flipped the little lever that routed the water to the faucet instead
of the shower head and now there was just a steaming pool of water in
the shower that was constantly replacing itself as it flowed down the
drain. I looked at the handle in my hand and noticed there were some
treads on it. "Good" I thought as I tried to screw the handle back into
place, hoping that it would work, ignoring the areas of broken metal I
had observed making it apparent it wasn't going to work anyways. All I
succeeded in doing was screwing the nob into the hole (it screwed onto
something) but it wouldn't shut anything off. In fact, it turned the
water from the steady stream of a fire hose into a veritable shotgun,
spraying a hefty radius with steaming pellets of water.
About this time I begin to realize that my feet really hurt because I'm
standing in the super hot water just flowing from the shower. Realizing
the screw approach wasn't working at all, I just pushed the handle in
and what do you know? It stopped the flow. Only problem was I really
had to push it in, and it was going against the build up pressure of
water coming from the water heater next door. I tried tying it with a
bit of string a couple times, avoiding the faucet as the hot water had
turned the metal fittings into a maze of hot steel. It wasn't very long
before I realized that wasn't going to work. I only succeeded in mildly
burning myself a couple times and then decided I should probably desist
that action since it was going no where.
I dried off a bit, tossed on some shorts and a shirt and went outside.
Finding the one worker that stays the night (along with 3 guards) I told
him I had a big problem in my room and I would show him. I said the
water wouldn't stop in my bathroom and he looked skeptical. He was
probably expecting a bit of a leaky faucet. Oh was he surprised when he
looked in the bathroom and froze. I was trying to communicate that we
should probably shut off the water when he said "I'll shut off the water
and we'll fix it tomorrow." Eh, that's fine with me. I go down to
dinner, go to sleep, and am chilling at Maji today, trying to forget
about yesterday.
I was doing a really good job of forgetting yesterday via lots of
reading and other random stuff and the plumber was doing his thing. He
left to get something and I eventually went and ate some lunch. After
eating some granola with a bit of Nutella (a chocolate spread that is
absolutely delicious) I settled into the living room down stairs and did
some reading. I was thoroughly enjoying my book when I wanted something
in my room. Deciding I could read there too, and also watch the plumber
if he came back to make sure he didn't take anything (I wasn't worried
at all, but people keep warning me about the possibilities of my stuff
just randomly disappearing) I head back to my room.
Approaching the room I know progress is being made because I can hear
running water and I think "oh good, he's testing it out before
leaving." Oh was I wrong as I opened the door and observed water
flowing from my bathroom and into my room. At least half my room was
covered with water, and not just a little bit either. Because the floor
is uneven, there was quite a lot of water in some places, and it was
spreading rapidly.
Grabbing my computer cord from the floor and checking what the problem
is, cold water is now spraying from the cold tap that is open because
the plumber was going to replace the whole thing, and it's just flowing
all over the place.
Once again I'm out in the yard looking for someone to turn off the
water. I quick find someone and tell them we must stop the water and
show him my room. "I'm going to turn off the water" he says. Duh,
that's what I asked you to do. The same worker that helped me out last
night came and checked out what was going on too and he was like "what
happened?" Mama Ngeleza came and together we cleaned it up. Most of it
she squeegied out the door and there was a lot of water coming out. It
was much too much to soak up with towels.
The water had got on some of my shoes, which were laying sideways, under
a bin, and my table, so I moved that stuff outside and set it in the
sun. Only problem was 10 minutes after we start ridding my room of the
water I'm in the bathroom and hear a pitter patter on the roof. Crap.
Not only is my room flooded, but now it's raining too? Right after I
stuck all my stuff that was wet into the SUN 10 minutes ago?
It was a pretty bad two hours. The highlight of it by far was when the
plumber came back and saw the huge mess and looked utterly astonished
and Mama Ngeleza is there yelling at him and yelling at him and yelling
at him. I didn't understand most of it but I did understand that she
was convinced it was his fault (as am I) and that she was not happy
because she had been tired all day and now she had to come and clean up
(I volunteered to do it myself but she wouldn't hear it) and all my
stuff was wet and I had some good stuff that's wet now and he should
feel bad. It was great. It almost made it worth it... Almost.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Congolese Construction - Brick Walls
There are three kinds of bricks here in Goma. There are the lava rock
bricks that people make using hammers - 12 bricks a day yields a worker
50 dollars a month here at Maji. Then there are the concrete bricks
which are never made using enough cement and so some of them can just be
rubbed away with your fingers, and others you actually have to try a bit
harder or use a finger nail. Not exactly what I'd want to build a
prison out of for sure. Then there are the red clay bricks that are all
shipped in to Goma (because we don't have any clay - just lava). It is
these bricks that we will discuss today.
bricks that people make using hammers - 12 bricks a day yields a worker
50 dollars a month here at Maji. Then there are the concrete bricks
which are never made using enough cement and so some of them can just be
rubbed away with your fingers, and others you actually have to try a bit
harder or use a finger nail. Not exactly what I'd want to build a
prison out of for sure. Then there are the red clay bricks that are all
shipped in to Goma (because we don't have any clay - just lava). It is
these bricks that we will discuss today.
The new house at Maji is being built with a combination of bricks, but
the red bricks make up a lot of it. When they build the walls the
bricks are too far apart with lots of mortar in between the bricks.
Also because the bricks are not made very well, handled poorly, and just
poor quality in general, the edges are always chipped, usually more
round than an edge, and there are often dents and cracks on the brick
face as well. It doesn't look too bad from a distance, but it's not
what most people would choose to have their living room walls made
with. Joe is no different; even though the walls in the living room and
bedroom both are made of these bricks, it's not good enough.
So begins the process. First the workers take the broken bricks and
brick pieces and collect them from all over the site. Then they smash
them with a hammer until they are small enough to fit in the mortar and
pestles they use here. You guessed it, then they grind them in the
mortar and pestle until they are a fine powder. To make sure they are
fine enough they rub the powder through a screen. They then have the
colorant for the walls. They mix this with a little bit of cement and
they fix the walls.
I'm not talking about patching up the cracks on the faces of the bricks,
or even finishing some of the edges so they are actually edges. They
redo the whole wall. They bring the whole wall our a half inch or so as
they make a new brick over each previous brick. Using trowels they make
the face flat and smooth and then using trowels again they make the
edges sharp. They do each brick. It's painstaking work and I asked the
guy how much he did in a day and he highlighted an area of wall about
two and a half feet square. That's all that guy is going to be doing
for weeks!
There is one section of wall that is more gray than others and it was
the first section, so I think they added too much cement to the mix to
cover up the red from the bricks. Also I don't know what they are going
to do for mortar because now there is a good inch and a half depth from
the brick face to the existing mortar and it doesn't look very good.
I'm sure they will do something with that later. I also noticed on the
second wall they started on, they ignored the under layer of bricks
completely and are just spacing the new bricks where there is a good gap
and making the rows completely straight, which makes it look a lot
better, but then why did they use the red bricks on the wall in the
first place? Kind of crazy, but I must admit the end product does look
pretty nice.
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